The fridge relay surely only comes into operation when the van is connected to the car and it has its engine running.

GTR hasn't, AFAIK, actually tested whether that form of energy for chilling is working. It's likely it probably is and his prob is with the 240V fridge element system

Thanks again SDA, much appreciated. I’m off to remove the fridge (carefully) and will see what I can find out. Will keep you posted. Hopefully it will become apparent as to how to remove the 240v element. Then I am hoping you might know where I can order a replacement from.

Hi John, could do with your advice again. I have removed the 4 screws, yet the fridge is still firmly fixed in place. Do you know where else it might be fixed - thanks. Also do I have to remove the small plinth piece below the fridge door ??? Robbie

Run a thin knife down each side of the fridge to make sure the gap between fridge and sidewalls is clear.
Also check each side of furniture panels hasn't any long screws through drawer runners, gas manifold etc.
Finally look through rear top vent and check if the top baffle isn't fixed to the fridge.
Is there a gas pipe joint at the rear that needs undoing? - the joint is usually at the top of the fridge behind the gas control valve but you never know!

Thanks John. This is beginning to sound like its way above my pay grade - but will press on with the thin knife etc.

Yes, the D+ supply from my Tiguan comes on before the engine runs so I fitted a voltage sensing relay at the CSV409, and now the 12V gets to the fridge only when the engine's running.

Same on my Nissan. I just turn the start/stop off when towing.

Steve

The AAA battery in the Piezo Electric igniter for the gas supply on our fridge in the Troll has leaked and corroded the igniter button.

I have sourced a replacement igniter but have singularly failed to remove the fridge from the cabinet.

The door is off and all 4 screws have been removed. I have run a thin paint scraper down between the edge of the fridge and the cabinet but still, it refuses to budge. So is there any other fixing that I have missed, such as underneath or at the rear of the fridge?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Alan

We have a 1998 Triton and when the fridge had to come out, the whole kitchen had to come out I hope it's not the same for you.

theres the screw that holds the gas isolator taps to wood work screw is too long and goes into the fridge.
the 4 screws round hob may need to be loosen not removed but wait till do the isolator housing screws

if taking out will you need to remove metal gas inlet pipe to fridge?

After reading through all these posts, I'm so glad my 1991 electrolux fridge was easy to remove and refurbish.

I finally managed to replace the gas igniter on our fridge. What was stopping the fridge from sliding out of the wooden housing was at the back of it.

I removed the outside vent grills and at the bottom of the fridge, there is an alloy sheet that is screwed to the wooden carcass of the sink unit with 5 small wood screws. At the top, there is a similarly shaped alloy panel screwed to the top of the fridge and the kitchen carcass. Unfortunately, you have to lift out the hob to access this panel.

The hob is held in place with 4 thin wood screws in the corners, the 2 front ones screw into the wood underneath the hob, while to two at the back screw into a plastic turnbuckle arrangement so only need to be loosened.

The gas pipe feeding the hob had a joint accessed via the outside vent so was easy to disconnect. I was then able to ease the fridge far enough out to change the gas igniter.

I did test the hob and fridge gas supply for leaks once I had reassembled everything.

BTW, the igniter battery, although flat, had not corroded. One of the metal contacts in the battery housing had become bent and was jamming the carrier so it would not turn!

Alan