I have a 2002 Eriba Familia 320GT, and (like many I have seen) the lacquer has peeled off most of the plastic trim parts - the front hitchbar cover, the wheel arches, the light clusters and the number plate holder.
I have just removed all these parts with a view to getting them painted, or even doing it myself. Before starting, I wondered if any of you have experience of doing this, and can share any tips to get the job done well? I am also looking to replace the screws with stainless, and would appreciate any tips as to where to source them?
Here are the parts after removal:
IMG_20230809_112438-small.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)
The larger of the two hitch cover parts is broken - one end is cracked through. Any tips about how to repair this prior to painting? Can I use glass fibre behind it?

Thanks in advance for your comments!

I'm interested too, I'm following you closely.

Owner of a 2002 310 in similar condition. Interested to see how you progress. The very best of luck.
ChrisB

so having posted the above I remembered back in 2018 I did a repair to the front piece so I just went out and photographed it. It was totally cracked and looked quite sad so I got a piece of aluminium checker plate, shaped it to suit. 'glued' it with Isopon ( I think ) and popped a few pop rivets into it. It is still holding up perfectly well.

310 Fairing.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte) shoot.. I forgot to attach the photo. Deffo gettting old(er)

Krylon fusion paint for plastic is worth look, they do a combined paint with primer .

Used fiber glass and resin on a cracked gas box cover that previous owner had done, came out OK. Better than £800 kool classics are asking for a new one.
https://www.koolclassics.com/details/p1439003_21140065.aspx

have just sprayed halfords best plastic primer on ours
one thing you should (as well as the mask) have is one of these, they save your finger from spray back and pressing fatigue😁
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Spraycraft-Spra...+trigger&sr=8-5

Getting the parts off was quite straight forward, using good quality screw driver bits. Two of the screws seized and had to be drilled out - the two that attach the front of the mud guards. These go through the aluminium trim, and I suspect some galvanic corrosion. I still have to drill out the remains of the screws and prepare the holes for new ones. The other problem I had - the white screw head covers on the big screws all fell apart, and will need replacing. I haven't yet sourced any, but I will share if I find any. I know from a conversation with Jandi a few years back they they didn't have any of them. I think these are generic, and don't need to be from Hymer though. I aim to source stainless screws as replacements, but may consider plain steel for those going into the frame to avoid galvanic corrosion of the frame. The screws which are visible would be good as stainless, and they only screw into the body, and not the frame.
I had considered getting the paint and doing it myself, but I have been to see a local paint shop and he will prepare and paint them for me. I removed all of the loose lacquer carefully with a craft knife. The lacquer which was not so exposed to the sun did not succumb, so he will sand them back. The broken part has been glued back on, and will be backed with some glass fibre cloth and resin. The plastic does glue with thick (and probably thin) super glue. I build model aircraft, so have a supply of decent glue handy! As well as the part which had broken off, there were some hairline cracks in places. These have been glued, and will also be strengthened.
I will make sure there are lots of pictures from now on, and document everything as a "How to..." when it's finished.

You mentioned sourcing stainless screws. I get all mine (and S/S bolts) from Amazon - most suppliers include a picture with decent measurements drawings (showing head diameter, etc.) that are invaluable. i have had a few mistakes, but have mostly been pleased with the supplied parts. I have now replaced all the waistline screws with stainless and am about to tackle the awning rail as well (it leaked a bit last winter). The only problem is the different "standards" on size - I find the M3, M4 descriptor varies a bit...

I am also tackling the light housings and small pearlescent silver trim parts that have "gone off" on my 2005 Triton. I found what sounds to be a really good paint mixer/supplier online - One Stop Aerosols of Milton Keynes - who have mixed up cans of a two pack acrylic paint with UV protector added. Not cheap, but I am hoping this will do a good job - and last! They do quite a range of different solvent paints. I will post photos when it arrives and I get the weather to do the job...!

You've got the chance to outshine Bad Waldsee and even Hymer France with their 'Chilli' special editions.

How about having it all chromed, no they've just done that and it looks tarty.

What about a vibrant colour, or maybe a more genteel dusky green or blue.

You could do a VW like they did on an earlier generation of Golf and paint each part a different bright colour.

Done well it could look stunning,e without the necessity for painting the whole bottom half.

Please no chrome....

chromes hard to do specially on wheel arch curves paints hard enough.
was tempted to try these after painted its like a protector that can be peeled off
https://www.youtube.com/@dipyourcar/videos
however knew it would upset the purists so resisted🤭

We have a chrome wrapped Bentley convertible living near us - now that does make a statement!

Chrome wrapped Eriba anyone?

I went back to the original colour! I'll attach a photo of the finished (unfitted parts) below! Thanks @simboc2004 for the comments regarding sourcing screws. I am also looking for the plastic screw covers used on the bigger screws on the wheel arches and the number plate cover. The OD is 18mm, and the ID of the lower part which receives the screw head and washer is 12mm, with about 15.6mm OD on the lower part. I can see lots of options on the internet which will probably work, but if someone has experience, I'd be happy to hear! Next job is removing the two screws which has seized and broke when removing.

For the larger screw covers I searched everywhere. The main problem I found was that the smaller ones needed for rear light clusters, etc. (on my 2005 Triton) tended to be too shallow when clipped on for the standard Eriba slightly domed head screws. So, I found a good range that work made by "Snap Caps".

I bought some 16mm ones in a darkish grey that really matches the lower Eriba colour well. For the smaller ones, used on the pearlescent parts, I found their 13mm lighter grey ones matched the originals well, though I had to be careful not to tighten too tight or the heads wouldn't clip on. Changing screws to stainless steel ones helps there (flatter heads). For the wheel arch spats retainers I ended up buying plated brass screwed-on head screw covers made by "TIMCO"; they are available in a number of finishes - I chose Satin Nickel, but you could buy Chrome if that's your thing (the one shown in the close up is a chrome one, since changed to satin). They are 18mm in diameter, flat topped, but look good fitted. Also in 16mm, 14mm and 12mm.

I bought them all from Amazon - all still available - photos of what to search for attached..

Hope that helps,
Simon