Hi All

I'm afraid I've been a lurker for the past few months having been looking for and now purchased a 2015 Troll 530. Really appreciated the wealth of info here - it's been a great help. I can't find anything on the 12v isolator switch though. I'd like to move or add a switch so it's accessable from the doorway but rather than a massive red effort, i'd like an original if possible.....Most thoughts gratefully received!

This is something I have been considering.

It is possible to change one of the single light switch frames by the door to a double one (there is space) so the 12-volt power switch can be easily accessed. However, this means running a 2-core cable from the back of the wardrobe right around through the back of the cupboards to the door. It should be possible to use a route around either the front or rear lockers. Both routes are about equal in distance. However, this is the bit that has put me off.

I believe some folk have done this though.

Alan

Thanks for the that. I'm thinking maybe move the weardrobe based switch to the side of the sink unit and put in a battery tester in its stead to fill the gap left.. Otherwise I wonder if with some cable pulls, I could get a cable along the top of the wash room and around the front lockers?

.....which now has me wondering what gauge 12v cable for a long run around the lockers. It looks as though the isloastion switch doesn't need to allow for the motor mover?

If you're running 12V more than a couple of meters you'll need some hefty cored cable to reduce loss in the cable. It's a drawback of 12v power distribution. I have wired several cars to have a 12v power socket in the boot to run a camping fridge and I ended up using some pretty big cable to make it work well. Off the top of my head I think I needed a minimum of 6mm/10awg core cable for that job. I read on a boat building website that, for a fridge, you need 1mm per metre you are running the cable. That means 3mm for 3m, 6mm for 6m, etc., etc. And that is core size of the metal in each cable.

The 12-volt switch is connected to the blue Schaudt control box/charger and is just a signal control switch. Little or no current will be involved, just a signal voltage, so a thin cable should be fine.

The motor mover is completely independent of the van's internal 12-volt electrics as it is wired directly to the battery via the red switch.

Alan

That's good - my 2005 Triton has been wired with a heavy duty "12V on" switch in the side of the underbed storage - different controller though...

Thanks again. So to be clear, pretty much anything to extend the isolation switch, but for 12v tv socket (6amp) in the lockers, 4mm?

Why not mount the switch just inside the side locker door? You can route the cable under the bed or bench seats that way.
You can mount it on the panel next to the fridge where there’s a vent gap .