For those who are fed up of wrestling the slats in and out every time you want to convert the rear dinette...

You'll need -

- 4 heavy duty ball-bearing drawer runners (standard size 450mm from B&Q)
- 4 500mm lengths of planed timber (standard size 44mm x 12mm)
- 8 40mm x 60mm x 60mm galvanised angle brackets (from Screwfix part no. 71671)
- a quantity of 12mm length #6 round-head self-tapping screws

The sides of either the fixed frame or sliding frame need to be made smaller to accommodate the thickness of the runners; I chose the fixed sides and completely replaced them rather than butcher the originals (just to be safe).

Each new 500mm side needs an angle screwing flush with the end (this will eventually fix to the frame back) and a runner attached which opens toward the opposite end. The upper and lower plywood guides need to be removed (only the upper will be re-used) and the original frame side taken out. The new side c/w runner can now be fixed to the frame back using the attached angle and taking care to get the correct sideways alignment (see first photo). The rubber back stops may have to be moved to accommodate the angle plate!



Carefully extend the sliding frame all the way out (it comes out further than normal because the end stop has been removed with the upper plywood) and screw the extended runner to the side (see second photo). Note - this can be tricky if you're working alone since the frames are quite wobbly when the side is not yet anchored...



Replace the upper plywood guide; this is required to join the front of the new side to the original frame using another angle plate ensuring enough clearance for the sliding frame (see third photo). Note the 3 screws along the outer edge of the ply are no longer required as is the lower ply.



Repeat another 3 times for the other sides. I would recommend saving all original parts in case someone in the future wants to put things back (although I can't think why!!!)

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If you're also fed up of lifting the beds on the original rickety stays then it is possible to replace these with gas struts...



You'll need -

- 4 adjustable gas struts 50N-700N force, 350mm with 129mm stroke (from Struts Depot)
- 8 right-angle ball stud brackets (from Struts Depot)




Once the original stays are removed, the original anchor pin which is fixed to the non-moving cabinet side can be replaced with a 90 degree angled ball mount. The sliding piston (not the cylinder body) of the gas strut should now be attached to this. The next part is a bit of trial and error but you need to be very careful not to let too much gas out of the strut because there is no way to put it back in!!! Carefully open the hex screw at the top of cylinder (until you hear gas escape) and close after about 4 seconds. Try and compress the piston by hand using as much force as you can. If it won't move then release another 4 seconds worth of gas and try again. If it still won't move then use 1 second bursts until you can compress it and measure the distance ball-to-ball whilst compressed. Mark this distance on the wooden side of the lifting bed frame and fix the second bracket making sure that the strut will be horizontal when the bed is down.

Repeat for the opposite side of the bed. With 2 gas struts now attached it may be that more gas needs to be released so that the bed does not to lift too quickly. Repeatedly lift and drop the bed releasing gas from each side accordingly whilst making sure that both struts extend at the same speed; if one side lifts more quickly than the other then release a small amount of gas from the quick side.

*** REMEMBER if you let too much gas out then you'll have to find someone to recharge it or you'll have to buy another ***

Happy DIYing for those brave enough...