A recent service revealed significant rust on the front subframe of my 2012 Troll. Whilst the chassis is galvanised the subframe is not and you will see from the photos taken after cleaning off the muck that after just 6 years a portion of the frame had rusted significantly - enough to require welding repairs. The van was supplied by Automotive Leisure although I am not the originally purchaser and when I contacted them for advice and hoping they could repair it, they flatly refused to help. Apparantly it's not something they do and they are too busy with other work!!! Imagine if you took your car to a main dealer and they took the same attitude, they'd be out of business in no time. Customer service non existent. Fortunately I found a local metal fabricator prepared to help. After cleaning off the rust, welding a new plate and a few spot welds everthing was coated to ensure no further damage. Moral - don't assume your relatively new Eriba will be rust free and a regular inspection/service is a good investment.

I had the same issue with Automotive Leisure. I have a thread regarding this elsewhere but long story short I needed an insurance repair on my axle but they refused to even look at it saying it’s not what they do. I’m sorry but the heck DO they do then if they need to support this stuff under warranty?

Yes Randa, its on both front quarters but not across the front middle. The chap who did the repair, who is a caravaner and repairs commercial vehicles, reckons it's caused by the spray from the back wheels of the car coupled with the metal not being adequately treated. A thorough inspection revealed the rest of the frame which runs right around the vehicle is in tip top condition. The van is covered in winter and is on a hard standing. I wonder how many people have the same problem but just haven't looked. Also something really worth checking if buying a second hand Eriba.

A bit of a shock isn’t it.
Is it corrosion from outside to in or inside to out?
Also I seem to remember somebody finding areas of missing sealant at these areas underneath so that they were exposed.
There was also a suggestion that the plastic fairing could rub against the frame encouraging rust in that area.

Cars haven't suffered from rust since the mid 80's. If the metal box tubing used was treated properly there wouldn't be a problem. We tend to think everything made in Germany will be high quality but that isn't the case here

took action on the trolls tenth birthday and after cleaning the dust off metal chassis, applied hydrate 80 a rust eater converter safety glasses are needed with this stuff. https://www.bilthamber.com/hydrate-80 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bilt-Hamber-Hyd...l/dp/B00672US20
, then applied black paint begins with H. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hammerite-51582...ords=rust+paint was more of preventative maintenance, will say easier to do on a mechanics roll board, eriba hitched to car (more for safety of 4 braked wheels), eriba parked on high ramps, for easier sliding under axle.
the fairings are screwed to the front metal part, these screw can rust in, hence why applied copper grease after all rust converter x painting
there was chat about rain getting between front fairing and metal chassis, when first got eriba so it was a preventative measure for me.

talking to a fellow owner from Scotland eriba do supply the special paint if don't want to go same route, would ask jandi,