......without removing the poptop itself.

I was asked by AC to add this "How To" to the sub forum but please bear in mind that in our case we had to take drastic action to remove the pop top canvas to thoroughly clean it or replace it. There is also a section on this BLOG by Pop540 that explains how to do it by taking the roof off. blog-e7298-The-year-restoration-and-other-Jobs-throughout-Ownership.html

This was the extent of the mould and dirt on the canvas and no amount of cleaning in situ could remove it.



We learned from others that the aluminium top rail that holds the canvas (Sunbrella), has a bulge of about 100mm somewhere in its circuit. Apparently not all Eribas have this facility however. In our case, it was alongside the side vent of the canvas.



The one thing that becomes obvious is that although the bottom of the canvas can be released from its aluminium housing easily as it just hooks under (see fig. 3), the same cannot be said about the top. The top of the canvas is fitted within a sliding channel not unlike the awning rail housing, but without a loose end, the only apparent way it can be removed is but tugging it out from the channel or cutting it to create a loose end. (fig. 1)

Fig. 1

The top of the canvas is folded over and stitched and has a removable rubber bead inside it. (See Fig 2 after the canvas was removed). In the case of our van, upon tugging the canvas at its side vent, down from the bulge, we discovered that the rubber bead was cut inside the canvas fold and the canvas was stitched at that point which was immediately above the side vent ( Point A in Fig 1). We cut the stitching a little to expose the rubber bead thus creating a loose end. If it was not cut then it wouldn't harm to cut it yourself.

Fig 2. Rubber Bead.

Once we had decided how to proceed, it was a matter of removing the bottom aluminium strips that surround the pop top aperture.

First, remove the roof clamp brackets (4 qty) and the plastic covers (2 qty) over the aluminium strips to the front and rear before removing the plastic screw cover strip, to expose the small fixing screws.



Remove the small phillips screws that hold the aluminium to the aperture edge at frequent intervals. The aluminium strips ( two pieces) can then be lifted off to release the bottom of the canvas.

Fig. 3

Next, it's time to pull/push the top of the canvas around the aluminium top rail, ensuring that the leading end of the rubber is pulled out of the rail. The canvas will prove to be very stubborn to move at first, probably because it hasn't been removed for years previously. In our case, we discovered that the rubber bead was cut in two places, A and B (Fig. 1). Getting the vents around the corners is the most difficult part but eventually it becomes easier, the more canvas that is removed.



Eventually, the canvas was removed so we tried washing it in the washing machine at 30 C and using "Vanish Powder" as well as the normal washing powder. We tried that twice and although the majority of the canvas came up well, the mould spots would not budge.

After extensive reading up of "Sunbrella's" recommendations on how to remove mould, they do suggest a small amount of bleach. Again this didn't work although there was a little improvement.

In our case and bearing in mind we were prepared to experiment to destruction if necessary, I laid the canvas on a clean, flat serface and, with hose pipe at the ready, I painted undiluted bleach onto half of the canvas and watched for about five to ten minutes, while the mould spots first turned yellow and then disappeared, before turning the hose pipe onto it to rapidly wash off the bleach. I then did the same with the other half before a third wash in the washing machine.

The results were fantastic but I was seriously worried whether I had weaked the canvas with all that bleaching. The proof of the pudding will be next year when we use the Eriba again but if all that tugging to get the canvas back into place is anything to go by, I think it's OK.



We used a silicon spray on the aluminium top rail and the canvas leading end when refitting the canvas and it was far easier to put back than it was to take out.

We spent far more time refitting it however as putting the aluminium bottom rails back around the aperture was very fiddly, especially trying to get the canvas to fit and trap itself within the profile (Fig. 3)

RE-WATER PROOFING.

Like most others, we decided to use 303 Fabric Guard as it proved to do the job successfully when we last re-proofed the canvas.



However, don't believe the coverage claims for one minute. One 16 oz bottle should have been enough for more than two Trolls if their claims were to be believed but we used two full bottles and it was only just enough.

Although there are warnings on the product regarding it coming into contact with fibreglass amoungst other things, we decided to re-proof it after refitting as we weren't sure if all that tugging would destroy much of the new waterproofing. However, our hose pipe was put back into action and as I carefully sprayed the canvas with 303, I gently hosed down the fibreglass being careful not to wash the canvas, to wash away any excess spray. The 303 was dry within about 4 hours on a average winter's day with no sun.

Thinking about it. I was convinced that the aluminium bottom rail was at least part responsible for the mould as it is often cold and wet during inclement weather, either when the van is in use or stored for the winter. I decided to experiment with some 4" (or 6") crepe bandage, sewed into a loop and stretched around the roof aperture before closing the roof down. Our local Chemists only had 6" and two rolls at a total cost of £8.00 was more than enough.

So far, on every occassion we've opened up the van, the bottom rail has been dry and the crepe bandage acts as a buffer between canvas and aluminium rail.

Randa