Hi there folks. So many permutations/combos out there that I can't really find the answer to my question so thought Id start a thread.
I've a Puck 225GT and tow it with a camper van. I used to have a brown/cream Pan classic and have noticed that the Puck does not tow anywhere near as nicely!

Its like the weight distribution in the 225 is wrong and is placing greater nose weight on the towball. (but it is completely unloaded bar gas bottles and battery.)

I'd expect the Puck to tow like a dream but its a bit painful on anything less than a smooth motorway due to an assortment of troubling bangs and clunks. Side roads and undulating roads are unpleasant.
Any ideas? Is that just the way the 225 is or am I doing something wrong???
My thoughts so far are:

-Tow ball height?
-Gas Cylinder weight?
-Needs more weight over the axle?
-Nothing currently counterbalancing at the far end?

All that said it tows perfectly on smooth roads and its easy to forget its there! Any advice Eribafolk?

Firstly, I guess, check the Puck's noseweight at the hitch. There'll be a hitch weight limit, a towbar weight limit and your towvan will have a limit too and the Puck's actual noseweight should never exceed the lowest of those three limits. You can buy noseweight gauges (beware cheap plastic ones as they can be inaccurate), or use a length of wood and some bathroom scales. The noseweight will alter depending on loading, getting heavier the more you place forward of the axle and lighter the more you place behind the axle. For the best stability it's always best to have the heaviest noseweight that the lowest limit allows.

All things being equal you'll get the best stability with any load placed as low as possible and as near as possible to the axle. Heavy weight at the rear of the van is considered potentially dangerous as it can generate, or contribute to the van developing a snake at speed.

Towball height shouldn't be a factor as there's an accepted industry height which all vans are built to and all towbar fittings should match.

There is an allowance of about 30kg built into an Eriba's MIRO figure to allow for any gas cylinders. Should the cylinders weigh more than that allowance the additional weight should come off the van's payload. One thought to consider is, unless you use an awful lot of gas it doesn't make much sense dragging two cylinders around all season, just in case. A check of a single cylinder every few months will tell you whether the gas inside is getting low and you can put two on board then, or chance it, as most sites sell gas and during the season it's really only used for a bit of cooking, so you won't freeze. Having just one cylinder will give you 13kg or so extra payload availability.

A couple of other random thoughts.

Creaks and groans might be the towball/towhitch needs cleaning (depending on type) and maybe the overrun damper needs checking.

It’s not a 225 peculiarity, our old one towed like a dream on all sorts of roads including some really poor ones in Europe. Best to do some checking as advised. I’m not technical, I just know it’s not a PuckL thing.

Thanks for the info - turns out it was the gas bottles and the air shocks on my van being at a low pressure.
Tows much better now.

One thought. Caravans can be horrible to tow when empty. Often the noseweight is low and that can lead to skittishness. In addition a van tends to need a load to make it hunker down onto the road, when it's light it will skitter about on road ridges and white lines, which you won't even notice when loaded.