Hi all,
We’re now fully functional members of this group having collected our new Troll 530 last week.
Now I want it to last forever, so notwithstanding the hot-dip galvanised chassis, I ordered a tub of ‘wax oil’ and a spray gun to give it a little extra protection.

However, when reading the manual it says that this could damage some of the underfloor seals.

What is your take on what’s best to do? (Deliberately not posted on the Facebook forum to avoid the “I coat mine in camel hair soaked in yaks milk” brigade.)🤪

Some subframe protection products are petroleum based which will perish rubber if it comes into contact with it.
Lanoguard is different as it is made from lanolin from sheep (not Yaks) and it does not perish rubber. Don't coat the floor as it is made from wood and it needs a different kind of treatment

https://www.lanoguard.co.uk

... and there was me trying to find the most outrageous daft suggestion.😂😂😂

Thanks for that; I’ll take a look.

(Now, where can I use that waxoyl stuff? Waterproofing Barbour jackets? ) ☹️😳😳😳

Your new Eriba's hot-dipped galvanised chassis must be allowed to cure by exposure to the atmosphere to allow maximum corrosion protection.

Although the chassis isn't made by Al-Ko, this is what they say on the subject:

The chassis is hot dipped galvanised. This is regarded as one of the best forms of corrosion protection. It does however require minimal maintenance in certain circumstances.

When new, the chassis is of a bright and shiny appearance. As the galvanising cures during the initial 2/ 3 month period, this will gradually change to a medium/dark grey colour. This grey finish is the ideal, giving the correct protective coating. During this curing period the surface should be protected to avoid possible wet storage stain,in the form of a soft, light coloured, porous, oxidation layer.

If the chassis members are in contact with any salt deposits from roads this should immediately be washed off with a high pressure washer. Salt attracts moisture allowing the surfaces to remain wet, this prevents curing and also allows formation of wet storage stain.It is recommended that the chassis/ components are washed off, using a pressure washer on an annual basis (especially after winter usage), to avoid undesirable build up of salt and dirt deposits.

The galvanised chassis should not be painted or subjected to any other protective treatment.

Should the galvanising become superficially damaged exposing the steel core, this should be cleaned and treated with a Cold Galvanising Spray obtainable from vehicle accessory outlets.

We’ll I had a good old think about all the comments and left the chassis to oxidise and go powdery.
- then I bought the Lanoguard kit and covered all of the metalwork underneath, including inside the box sections.🙂

It’s a really thin oil so it went everywhere and I smelled like a farmyard for the weekend, but it covered well, using only 1 litre so there’s enough for another coat next year.
I also went for the grease version and brushed it into all the moving parts on the steadies, step etc. It’s made the winding much quieter.

As I said previously, we’re intending keeping the troll for many years so I want to keep the rust at bay any way I can.
I’ll add to this thread next September to report on progress.

I am thinking of getting some of that Lanoguard myself for my cars and the Eriba.

I wonder how many times it’s got to be used before you get any appreciable wear? The frame of the steps seems to be mild steel, I’d be more concerned if it was aluminium. Good call though Colin, I’ll take a look over the weekend.👍

I have been using this product for a few years now both on my own vehicles and up until recently on many customer vehicles , ( I sold my car repair business in July and retired ) it is quick and easy to use and to be fair it does the job .

That’s good to know, I naturally distrust f/b adverts etc. so your comments are appreciated.

Hi Inspecta...thinking about using Lanoguard on our 2007 430 Triton. Couple of questions: 1. Did the smell dissipate altogether, and if so how long did it take? 2. How did you get inside the box sections? Not clear to me weather there are plastic bungs or drilled holes here and there. Comments?

Hi,
The smell only lasts a couple of days tbh. I’ve recently re-applied the other half of the 2l. container and it didn’t linger at all. (The caravan didn’t smell bad either!🤣)

The chassis members have small holes for the galvanising process and the kit comes with a small pipe extension which goes about 50cm into the holes and the outer edges are open also.

It’s important to put some plastic sheeting under the job, and not the tarpaulin sheets which are woven and don’t stop marks underneath. 👍

Thanks. I do not think my 2007 Triton is galvanised. There do not appear to be open ends of many of the box sections. I will just have to do what I can.