We have developed a problem with the heater, the gas is disconnected so this is purely an electrical prob. when we switch on the heater on 500/1000 or 2000, all work as they should, if we switch it off and turn the fan/blower on all works as it should, now here is the prob, if we have the heater and the fan/blower on, after a short time i.e. as soon as the casing gets warm/hot the fan starts to stutter and eventually stops, turn off the heat and as soon as it cools down the fan will run again.
anyone got any ideas? [ I was thinking maybe the blower switch on the casing is getting iffy it is 16 years old].
Dave

Sounds like a fan problem - they do tend to get clogged up with muck and fluff and perhaps it just needs a good clean.

To confirm it's not the switch playing up when getting hot you could disconnect the cable from it and remove it from the
top of the heater. You can then reconnect the switch and run it away from the casing so it doesn't heat up.

Thanks John
I have hovered out the fan and cleared away the dust and debis.
I will try doing a s you say with the switch tomorrow.
thanks
Dave

Ok, so today I removed the switch from the heater and fixed it to the fridge, then switched the heater and fan on, it ran for about 15 mins then the fan died as before, I then quickly removed the front and spun the fan with a long screw driver and it spun freely, so now I haven't a clue, I can only think that something is disconnecting inside the fan as it gets hot [as in worn parts]????
Dave

So the fault is down to either the fan motor or the PCB which is located at the back of the fan in its housing.

You'll need to remove the fan assembly from the back of the fire housing which is held on by 3 screws located at 12 o'clock, 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock.

After you've unplugged the control cable and 12V leads from the assembly remove the 12 o'clock screw and loosen the other 2 - the assembly will now lift off.

Remove the plastic cover and unplug the fan motor from the PCB.

You could now test the fan by connecting 12 Volts directly across it.

If the fan spins ok the PCB is faulty - it may show signs of overheating, but not necessarily.

The fan motor is Truma part no 40000-42000, the PCB is 40000-60900.

Good luck, Dave.

Thanks John, I think I will wait till we get home before I try any of that as I don't have the tools with me, should keep me occupied over Christmas
Dave

same thing happened to my first troll, with Johns help worked out to be the pcb.
replaced and worked fine, expensive pcb for what it is.

good luck hope all goes well

We bought our first Feeling 425 from The Netherlands and as such came without the Autonomy Pack - no battery, no charger, and the blown-air fan was the 230V TN-3 as opposed to the 12V TEB-3.

I replaced the TN-3 with the older TEB-2 12V fan (which I thought sounded a little noisier) at the same time as I installed a CSV409 charger and leisure battery.

The newer TEB-3 is a more reliable design than its predecessor; the fan's speed is controlled by digital PWM as opposed to analogue speed control which suffers from overheating.

The TEB-3 fan is fitted with the newer Truma S3004 gas fire.

Well at last it's sorted, did as you suggested and ran it on full heat until the problem appeared, then removed the black cover and put the 12v across the motor and it started ok, so bought a new pcb and fitted it, having in the meantime stripped the entire fan and motor assembly and cleaned it completely, when I fitted the new pcb, without re-assembling it I ran it and the same problem appeared I quickly whipped off the 12v leads and put them across the motor and it just grunted and stopped, tried again 10 secs layer and it ran fine, tried the whole exercise again from start to finish with the same result, so I have replaced the motor and all works good, but a strange fault.
Now my next problem is how do I get rid 1stone of excess fat?
Dave