Hi Randa, I found the forum and joined after you contacted me through Facebook! I’ve done four electrical/solar conversions to date, a Murvi van, Bürstner motorhome, my Coachman caravan in the UK and most recently our Eriba in NZ. So I’ve learned a lot along the way. I can answer members general questions on solar/lithium etc but some changes will be specific to the usage and application and I can only generalise.
Note that our Eriba is set up for offgrid use in NZ where caravans can “freedom camp”; many European members will only ever use commercial or club caravan sites with EHU so these changes are irrelevant. We compromised by keeping our 3-way absorption fridge. A compressor fridge is generally better if you have a lithium setup but costs around €750. The 2024 Eribas have the option of a compressor fridge as standard and these vans will better lend themselves to big solar upgrades. They are also a bit longer and wider so maybe more roof space!
Cheers, Bill

hi just welcomed a 2008 430GT to our family and am thinking of adding solar capability. Howwever, i am planning to use a Renology portable folding 200w solar panel kit running through the solar controller and into the leisure battery. probably have connecting cable coming up under floor to controller - any thoughts?

I have a 2007 Triton 430 so you may have similar electrics.
On mine there is a direct live connection to the leisure battery via the 13 pin plug. I simply made up a 13 pin trailing socket with an Anderson connector on the other end. The solar panel simply plugs in to the Anderson connector.
I don't believe this simple solution works on newer vans though.

There's a thread on here somewhere which I'll look out for when I have time or maybe use the search facility yourself

Here you are
Using Solar Panel to recharge the leisure battery

Hi Ulysses, That’s a similar solution to what I have with my second controller, supplied by a fixed 150w panel. I’ve had a connector behind the lower fridge vent; the female end of the cable ran through the top slot of that vent. But in practice I’ve found it doesn’t do the vent cover any good continually taking it off, mine came loose in transit! So I got a chassis plug/socket very cheap on Temu which I am putting through the floor. It has a waterproof cap and I will locate it just behind one of the chassis outriggers for maximum protection.
I think an external panel is a huge benefit. I have 450w of Flexi panels on the roof but the external 150 panel consistently produces at least 50% as much power, because you can angle it to the sun. Good luck!
B.

Hi Ray, That sounds a bit dodgey! The charging pins in your 13 pin socket are expecting to receive an alternator charge, say 14.4v. The solar panel could be be producing 18 or more volts. Or does your panel have a built in solar controller? If not you could find a cheap regulator on eBay or similar which will take anything up to 30v input and convert to constant 12v output. Cheers.
B.

Hi Bill,
thanks for paying attention!

My solar panel has a built in controller, you can even select what type of battery is being charged, in my case, AGM.

So, all is good, one less set of wires to attach to the leisure battery.

Incidentally, my panel is just a 60Watt folding type, chained to the A frame.
I find that being able to adjust the angle and position of the panel maximises the efficiency of the panel. In the morning before leaving site I
I set the panel to due South. Coming back later in the day it goes approximately West and then last thing at night it is set to East.
The battery holds up very well over a 7 day stay with enough left in it to use the motor mover to get hitched up.
That drives led lights, water pump, phone and tablet chargers and a couple of hours TV a night via a 300W inverter.

I have a simple 20W panel from Photonic Universe charging my 80W battery through one of their Solar Charge Controllers. This was just to keep my battery topped up whilst my Triton is in outdoor winter storage on a farm nearby. This is the second year of using it - last year it maintained charge easily, but this year it has struggled at times - possibly due to the permanent rain clouds we have had this winter (wettest ever recorded in East Anglia). I also have to have the solar panel on a post to enable it to see the sun over the roof, due to where it's parked, and I have that post bolted to a wheel clamp to stop its being easily stolen (I have a cover over the van in storage). I have to say, I hummed and hawed for quite some days over how to do it, but it has worked well in practice.

I am now thinking it would be more sensible to up the options to include a portable 200W panel that I can just swap over to when out and about. I can use the existing cabling I installed - which goes up through the floor just behind/inboard of the UK nearside wheel - and is quickly removable via its Anderson connectors. That does mean I'll have to upgrade to a more "powerful" Solar Charge Controller - and I am dithering whether to go the full hog and buy an MPPT controller rather than a standard type. More cost, but will I really see a benefit? I intend to upgrade to a higher Ah battery when the current one packs up. I'm not really sure I will ever run completely "off grid", but it might well be needed at some point (and increases the campsite options)...

Hi @simbic
I found that I go 25-30% increase in charge from my mppt controller.
Steve.

Hi @Simboc2004, Makes sense to reuse your existing Anderson plug.There is less difference in output between MPPT and PWM controllers than is often stated. MPPT will react faster to changing light conditions. For me though, the benefit in MPPT is the app that usually accompanies the unit, so you know what it’s producing and can configure to the battery type. I have used gear from Victron, Renogy and EPEver. They all work well. The EPEver may require a Bluetooth dongle or remote control panel and the app is a bit fiddley. Victron BlueSmart with built in BT is a little more expensive but easy to use, Renogy a little cheaper. Ideally you need min 20A controller for a 200w panel (16.7A), but in practice you’ll get away with a good 15A unit because you won’t get more than about 80% efficiency in the UK. Cheers, Bill.

Great advice, than you.

Not sure we've reached 8% efficiency this winter in the UK...

Simon