#1

Cleaning your pride and joy (a work in progress not yet finished!!!!) a bit more added 210814

in Anything Eriba-related Wed Aug 20, 2014 7:23 pm
by Agger (deleted)
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The first thing you need is willpower! Without it you will just put off the job until another day.

I always have willpower so its no problem for me, I then collect together the other bits I need. This is my list for the external pre wash, wash, dry and then wax.

Ladder
Hosepipe with spray gun head
Aldi or Lidl caravan cleaner
Car shampoo (I use Autoglym)
Noodle mitts (plural)
Soft brush (for the tyres)
Cotton wool balls (for the rain gutter and awning rail)
Toothbrush (to be used carefully)
Microfibre cloths (Asda and car valeters)
Polish application sponge pads
Polish (I use a variety but like Meguiars)
Microfibre cloths
Wax application sponge pads
Wax (Harly, Collinite etc)
More microfibre cloths.
I use 2 Rhino buckets to keep these items in while I am using them.

I often split the van into sections as it is easier and saves me having to rush the job, therefore I do the front, side, back and then the other side. I can do the roof as well following the above practice.

I put the ladder up across the draw bar as this allows me to access the whole of the front, I can do the pop top roof and lower roof section around to the high level side marking lights this way.

I start by giving the area I am working on a good soaking with just plain water and depending how long it's been between washes, I undo the window catches so I can access the body parts that are covered while the windows are closed. IMHO it is essential to pre-soak the van as this softens bugs, flies etc and any dust or black streaks.

If the dreaded black streaks do appear I use the Aldi or Lidl caravan cleaner, sometimes straight from the bottle onto a wet noodle mitt, at other times mixed in a bucket of water (a little stronger than it says on the bottle). I then work this into the bodywork and keep my hosepipe at the ready in the other hand to spray off when I can see the marks have gone. I do this all over the front of the upper roof, lower roof, side to the door, front (including under the window edges) and even the draw bar cover) then of course the other side, but only the roof. I then rinse it off and use the Autoglym shampoo which gives a really nice smooth feel to the paintwork, I use a different noodle mitt for this, again I will use it neat onto a wet mitt or premixed in a bucket. Once I am happy that the paintwork is clean I rinse it off and then use one of the large Asda microfibre cloths (£3 and just brilliant, orange in colour and big!) to dry the washed areas, I lift the windows and clean around the rubbers with an old damp cloth.

I then move the ladder and other needed items to the non-door side, as part of this is still wet, I pre rinse the whole side including the pop top, side lower roof and the side, again I unlatch the windows, I also unlock the Thetford door. As before I will use the Aldi or Lidl cleaner on black marks, and then rinse it off before I wash the side with a noodle mitt soaked in the diluted cleaner, this is then rinsed off and the Autoglym shampoo applied as before. I lift the windows and clean around the surrounds and open the Thetford hatch and do the same. As before I then rinse it off and then using another clean Asda microfibre cloth, I dry the wet areas.

Basically the same for the back and then the door side. Which should see the van washed clean and dried.

I will deal with wheel cleaning later as mine are covered so only get a wash before a trip.

I then look for any unsightly marks on the trim or other areas. Depending on what and where the marks are I use a variety of cleaning agents to remove them. I find Duraglit particularly useful for the aluminium waistline and rain / awning gutter. I have also used baby wipes and throw-away wipes successfully, it depends what you want to remove! I never ever have to scrub or use force to remove dirty marks, inevitably all you will remove is paintwork!!!

I now move onto the polishing and or waxing. For this it is imperative that the paintwork is clean and dust free, if not you will end up with swirl marks! I use a variety of polishes and waxes so I will mention those I like. I follow the instructions on the product and nearly all need a good shake before use, here's a little tip, put the polish / wax bottle / jar / tin in a plastic bag and then put it in a bowl of hot water, this loosens the settled residue (the good stuff at the bottom of the container), after a few minutes take it out of the bag (why a bag? If not you lose the instructions as they disintegrate) and give it a good shake!

Apply some of the polish / wax to a sponge applicator pad and using a circular motion start at one end of a panel and work it in. Once you have applied it to an area using the circular motion, use the pad again to go over what you have already done using straight lines, this will ensure a good even covering. Many of us use too much polish or wax; you only need enough to leave a light dusting on the van, but you need to work it in, again just light elbow grease - no force or scrubbing!

This should dry to a light dusty type coating (some polishes / waxes should not be allowed to dry! BUT you will know that as you read the instructions!) Once it is dry, grab a clean and fresh microfibre cloth and gently rub off the dry polish / wax again I use a light circular motion followed by straight lines. I do the very top underneath of the windows, this is being picky but that's what I am! Just work your way around the van following the same method.

If you are polishing you may want to seal in the shine with a wax. You should as it extends the life of the shine. The general rule is to allow at least 24 hours between polishing and applying wax or indeed waxing on top of wax (multicoating). Some polish / waxes are very differnt to others, some dry very quickly, some don't, some can be applied to a wet surface, some can't, some are a paste, some liquid and some are applied from an almost solid block! I use Harly wax extensivley (Ebay) I think 2 tins a year qualifies me to say extensivley. It is easy on and easy off, leaves no dusty residue and produces a deep lustre, I can wash, dry, wax and shine the whole of our Eriba (roof waxed as well) in about 2 hours! BUTyou have to understand although our van stands outside uncovered it is never allowed to get dirty!

I use a variety of microfibre cloths and seldom use the chamois type, when we were in Germany I used Vileda Flunky cloths and Polierwatte (cotton wool like polishing material), Flunky cloths can be purchased on Ebay, but I moved away from Polierwatte due to swirl marks!

The large Asda £3 microfibre drying towel is orange and I was so impressed by my first one that I bought 10 yes ten more. I can dry the whole van with 3 and it is quick and easy, they can be washed normally and I am still using my original one some 6 months later and it gets a LOT of use. I also buy smaller microfibre cloths from Ebay and like the ones without a tab, as this can scratch.

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Likes to wax and have a smooth finish


Aaron Calder, and like this post!
Last edited Sat Aug 23, 2014 7:20 am | Scroll up

#2

RE: Cleaning your pride and joy (a work in progress not yet finished!!!!)

in Anything Eriba-related Wed Aug 20, 2014 8:24 pm
by Aaron Calder | 3.834 Posts

Now that's what I call a labour of love!


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2003 Triton 420 and Audi A4 2.0Tfsi S-line SE Cabriolet
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#3

RE: Cleaning your pride and joy (a work in progress not yet finished!!!!)

in Anything Eriba-related Wed Aug 20, 2014 8:26 pm
by Agger (deleted)
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Yeh but I hav'nt finished yet!


So good I named it twice


Likes to wax and have a smooth finish
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#4

RE: Cleaning your pride and joy (a work in progress not yet finished!!!!)

in Anything Eriba-related Wed Aug 20, 2014 8:46 pm
by Aaron Calder | 3.834 Posts

Why should you leave 24 hours between polishing and waxing, Graham? Surely, in that period the surface will become contaminated with airborne dust particles which will scratch the newly-polished finish when you wax it.


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2003 Triton 420 and Audi A4 2.0Tfsi S-line SE Cabriolet
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#5

RE: Cleaning your pride and joy (a work in progress not yet finished!!!!)

in Anything Eriba-related Wed Aug 20, 2014 9:07 pm
by Agger (deleted)
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Quote: Aaron Calder wrote in post #4
Why should you leave 24 hours between polishing and waxing, Graham? Surely, in that period the surface will become contaminated with airborne dust particles which will scratch the newly-polished finish when you wax it.



You are quite right, it's what the car guys reccommend, I can only assume it to let the polish or wax harden, I know on some of my polish or wax containers it does say to allow 24 hours between applications. I usually allow at least 48 hours but I have time and ability on my hands.


Likes to wax and have a smooth finish
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#6

RE: Cleaning your pride and joy (a work in progress not yet finished!!!!)

in Anything Eriba-related Wed Aug 20, 2014 9:57 pm
by Pop540 (deleted)
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is it to allow ye to wash and dry the cloths?


Eriba troll 540 likes constant hugs, and buffs and the odd cuppa.

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