The dreaded BIP
Hi All,
I fear I have a failing BIP! Since we've been in Spain / Portugal we have been on mains hook up ( I said we wouldn't but the need for a 230v fan over rid my intentions to rely on 12v solar). On checking the battery voltage on hook up I'm getting approx 12.6v so the internal charger is not putting anything into the battery. It's not been a problem so far as we've only stayed a maximum of 3 nights in any one place and the car has topped up the battery on route.
The internal 12v PSU function seems to be working, I'm getting 12.6v with the battery disconnected and the lights work so the battery hasn't had anything to do.
I've got my Ctek MX5 charger with me so have got it on charge now whilst we are out for the day.
I've checked all the fuses and all seem OK, we'll be back in Blighty later in the week so one more job to do!
Chris
Puck L230GT following a Land Rover Defender 110 Station Wagon or 90 Soft Top
RE: The dreaded BIP
in Anything Eriba-related Mon Aug 29, 2016 11:52 amby Aaron Calder • | 3.834 Posts
Having been there, done that and got the T-shirt, I can sympathise. At least you had a battery charger with you and didn't have to go out and buy another.
If the problem is the transformer in the BIP, I have one that you can have but you may want to do what I did and modernise the system while you are at it.
Let us know how you get on.
Forum Administrator
2003 Triton 420 and Audi A4 2.0Tfsi S-line SE Cabriolet
Hi Aaron,
Yes, I read your posts on the BIP with interest, ( or should it be dread? ).
Thing is, as I have been on EHU for this trip, and the PSU appears to be working and supplying the led lighting / water pump, I would never have noticed the problem had I not checked the battery voltage. If I had been "off grid" and using my solar panel again I would have been none the wiser. I suppose I may have found out towards the end of a wet, off grid winter week back home but even then as I wouldn't have had an EHU, so the battery would have been charged en route by the vehicles alternator. So, do we really need EHU charging by BIP? We could fully charge the battery before leaving home with a Ctek type charger and rely on the car alternator to keep it topped up enroute to our off grid site. With good LED lighting, the occasional use of the pump it should be ok for a week, start using high consumption devices then it would be another story, but this would be the case even if we did have a functioning BIP unit. Food for thought?
Btw battery now fully charged via the Ctek.
Chris
Puck L230GT following a Land Rover Defender 110 Station Wagon or 90 Soft Top
RE: The dreaded BIP
in Anything Eriba-related Mon Aug 29, 2016 7:30 pmby Aaron Calder • | 3.834 Posts
Problems arise if you have a mover and have to use it extensively to pitch correctly (eg if they require you to be nose into a pitch with no through access.) That can really cane the battery.
When I modernised my electrics, I found that my Schaudt booster's fuse had blown so it could not have been charging while towing. With all the electrical kit under the seats it is easy to overlook such things. I think a voltmeter is absolutely essential for peace of mind.
Forum Administrator
2003 Triton 420 and Audi A4 2.0Tfsi S-line SE Cabriolet
Ah yes, can see the logic there, high current which only the battery can supply, needs to be topped up for the mover at the end of your stay. We, unfortunately, don't have that luxury so didn't factor that in to my thoughts! If we did have a mover I think I'd be a bit more worried about it !
Chris
Puck L230GT following a Land Rover Defender 110 Station Wagon or 90 Soft Top
I'm reading this with interest as I think the charging circuit on my BIP is a bit suspect. I'm only getting around 13.3v on EHU but even the correct charging voltage (13.7??) is not going to give a 'proper' deep charge so long term a better solution like Aaron has done will be the way forward.
In the mean time I'm giving the battery a regular charge with a separate CTEK charger and I've permanently fitted the unit below which has been great for keeping an eye on the voltage
http://www.grasshopperleisure.co.uk/sarg...anel-4044-p.asp
RE: The dreaded BIP
in Anything Eriba-related Tue Aug 30, 2016 8:24 amby Aaron Calder • | 3.834 Posts
Yes, mine is definitely not quite right and a call to AL is imminent as it's still in warranty!
I was under the impression that the BIP charger only ever put out the 13.7 max (hence the reason I regularly use the CTEK), it is only the Schaudt unit that puts out the 14.5 when driving.
RE: The dreaded BIP
in Anything Eriba-related Tue Aug 30, 2016 10:18 amby Aaron Calder • | 3.834 Posts
Quote: DBVWT wrote in post #8I stand corrected. I've just checked the BIP technical brochure and the charging curve shows the voltage rising to a maximum of 13.7 +/- 0.1v until the battery is fully charged and then staying at that voltage in float mode.
I was under the impression that the BIP charger only ever put out the 13.7 max (hence the reason I regularly use the CTEK), it is only the Schaudt unit that puts out the 14.5 when driving.
That's why the BIP system is obsolete and John England recommended my updating to a three-stage charger when mine failed. I have only ever seen 14.5v and 13.8v displayed on the voltmeter since I installed the modified system but I think it will, if necessary, go higher.
The Schaudt booster does deliver 14.5 volts. Mine hadn't been working as one of the two floor-mounted fuses had blown without my being aware. I wonder if the other fuse on the floor could have anything to do with the fridge 12v circuit?
Thanks for putting me right.
I've attached the BIP document as a .pdf file below if anyone interested. Scroll down for the English translation.
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Forum Administrator
2003 Triton 420 and Audi A4 2.0Tfsi S-line SE Cabriolet
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