Some people on CT reckon that the idea of 'flat spots' developing over a winter's storage is an old wives tale. I must admit that I've not taken any precautions about such issues in 5 seasons and I've never noticed a problem.

I'll stick to 5 years before replacement because I always err on the side of safety, although when we picked up Esmerelda she was running on 7 year old tyres and they looked brand new.

I still swapped them and took Sandy's advice and swapped them to the bigger size that's been fitted to Trolls since, I think 2009. He reckoned they were a better, stronger tyre for roughly the same money. They did slightly reduce the clearance to the mover though.

Um, how very odd. Tyre pressures for our Triton rated at 1200kg are 3.3 bar whereas your chart shows 3.85 bar.

That said, for winter storage although I have the very same cradles as in your post, Roger, I don't actually use them because I find that most people I know place their bikes, cars, caravans and what-have-you on wood when not in use over the winter. Concrete sucks out the Silica from rubber, hence the reason for this trick. The owner of our winter storage place is actually a tyre dealer who also happens to own a caravan. He told me to either jack the van up, although he didn't really think it necessary, or place the wheels on short pieces of wood followed by inflating the tyres to between 6 and 7 bars. Tyres pumped up to that pressure are not going to deform by remaining in one place and the wooden blocks will prevent the Silica being drawn out.

As far as lifespan of tyres goes. Here we have no choice in the matter as trailers of all descriptions are registered as vehicles in their own right and require a bi-annual HU (MOT). At the third test (6 years)if the tyres are older than the 6 years stipulated by the testing station then the van is downrated to the manufacturers standard 850kg.

If I remember correctly it was found that the handbook tyre pressures were incorrect for quite a way back and that tyres should have been at the much higher pressures. Again Sandy knows all about it but you have to be ready for a lengthy phone call if you want to confirm it with him.

Hi Randa, I totally agree with your recommendations, I also use the tyre cradles that spread the load over a greater surface area and I use wheel covers to slow down the UV degradation of the rubber. I've had first hand experience of flat spots on an old MG Midget, a tyre went egg shaped after been stood for a prolonged period, it was only noticeable at 35mph where the car would start shake my fillings out

I'm soon due (overdue !) to replace my Eriba Puck L tyres for age related reason. What is the general opinion on the need to balance ? The original ones were never balanced and show no signs of vibration or uneven wear .

Well Sandy @ Jandi told me not to bother getting them balanced as they're on a beam axle and don't steer and therefore the liklihood of any vibration is minimal.

There again, on CT you get people who fell very strongly that caravan wheels should be balanced.

I didn't bother specifying balancing when I had our last Troll's tyres replaced by Event mobile, but for all I know they might do it automatically. I never looked to check.

Sound advice ! for the small extra cost involved, must be worth it ! If it's all running smooth and true it must put less strain on all the running gear and associated parts . Thanks for all your replies