While not wishing to disagree with Mr Motters for the sake of it (mainly because I'm scared to death of him - he looks like a bloke who could start an argument in an empty room), I wouldn't use chocolate block connectors for mains voltage where there is a risk of the exposed contacts being touched.

And in a caravan, that's almost anywhere.

Sure, they're quick, and they're small, but for low voltage, not 230V.

I'd use a proper junction box with a proper cover fastened on with a screw.

.

Dave,
I sourced mine from www.clearcutconversions.co.uk
They are as originally fitted, but you need to take care with the colour as they differ slightly. I swapped some of the original around so I did not have original and extras in the same sight line.
They are very helpful over the phone and from memory were flexible on mix and match order combinations.

Colin

Always glad to help.

Colin

You do not have to go to Jandi in this instance. An internet search will provide suppliers who should have what you want in stock. Also from memory Rainbow Conversions stock more than what is on the website.

Colin

Below are some photos that will hopefully help. You need off-cuts of 6mm and 9mm birch plywood, along with a selection of thin [2.5 or 3mm] gauge self tapping or general csk head woodscrews.
This was a bit trial and error as you are at times dealing with compound [in two planes] angles. I originally made the box deeper but could not get it to fit due to the consumer unit on the right hand side. You may think you could bring the front forwards to get an even bigger box but I would advise against this. I have in the region of 40mm clearance with the back of the heater.
The box was assembled/taken apart and cut/planed a few times before final glue and screw together and then finished in a satin acrylic varnish.

I short:-
- remove lift out cover flap.
- screw a supporting strip of plywood down each side under the surface of the wardrobe bottom.
- use flap as a template to make the letter box top of your box that will drop into place.
- use flap as a template for new cover flap.
- cut oversize and screw panels together [not as easy as it sounds]
- take apart and correct any errors.
- reassemble when happy with glue and screws.

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Best of luck - Colin

Nice job Colin

Randa

Jaz,
I bought a couple of in-line fuse holders with 10amp blade fuses fitted, like these:-
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I attached one each to the battery terminals and on the other end fixed a small terminal block that I screwed to the inside of the underbed woodwork.
From these I ran supplies to tv supply, useful underbed light [just inside outside hatch] and fridge fans.
This method meant I did not have to cut into the vans 12v circuit and my extras were isolated from the mains 12v switch. If I were to turn the 12v mains off inadvertently when trying to turn the lights off via the bedside switch then I would not loose the tv. I could also look for things under the bed when setting up if I had not gone into the van to turn the 12v power on.

Colin

Dear Mr Pepe just picked up 3 months late on your comment #16.

" I wouldn't use chocolate block connectors for mains voltage where there is a risk of the exposed contacts being touched.
And in a caravan, that's almost anywhere.
Sure, they're quick, and they're small, but for low voltage, not 230V.
I'd use a proper junction box with a proper cover fastened on with a screw."

Do not fear, all is well. Choci-block connectors on mains voltage have only been used behind closed panels fixed by screws. It is not possible to come into contact with them.

Colin

Technically I am capable of "simple stuff" but I did not want to tap into the CSV box for fear of ignorance. If you are more tech savie then you should be able to do so. The attached should be of use.

Colin