Collected from Lowdhams in Feb 2017, my modifications completed by self, unless stated, over the following 6 weeks ready for years of use.
I’ve included some factory and dealer fit bits as photos may be of use.

• ALKO premium jockey wheel, wide wheel with built in nose gauge.
• Gas locker – fitted out with Calorlite and Campingaz 907 – also squeezed in is a Coram/Land Rover bottle jack back left in a boot bag, jack pads, ramp, chocks and a few chemicals along with cut out plywood bumper protection panel.
• Front cycle carrier bracket, hand cut out of steel angle iron, bright zinc yellow plated and powder coated.
• Reich Easidriver basic 1.8 - dealer fit.
• Socket under bed inside access locker – dealer fit.
• Under van IP66 socket, rear door side corner.
• Kampa gutter/awning strip.
• Fiamma rear mounted cycle carrier – CL model but Triganno motorhome model will also fit - internal waste level material on flexi-ply trim removed for bolting through van and then re-fitted with back surface relieved to a cover locknuts – bottom fixing rail bolted thtough with timber spreader inside - lots of Sikaflex 512 used - handrail cut back to 75mm of exposed tube with light grey bungs to ends – I did get two handles as on front of van to use incase I was not happy with the leverage this may create but no deflection evident when pulled.
• Co-axial lead can be pulled out 150mm or so for connection to tv/satellite feed into van.
• Tv/co-axial output in overhead locker at rear/side of van on door side – wiring runs over top lockers – 12v feed from a separate fused supply off battery that also feeds to fridge fans.
• Kitchen handle used as a hanging bracket for TV – I did buy a nice Avtex bracket but Mrs eribaMotters did not like it.
• Truma hot water switch under bed – factory fit.
• Extra socket under bed.
• Making most use of space at bottom of wardrobe – a fiddly job of glue and screw 9mm birch plywood into a drop in box, still leaving lots of clearance behind fire.
• Extra socket near sink area.
• ADAX VP11 500 watt heater fitted to end of kitchen on turned mounts to replace supplied brackets – fed from extra socket inside base of sink unit.
• Cut down mesh drawer from IKEA under sink.
• Switch for fridge vans hidden behind drawer front.
• 2 x 80mm fridge fans.
• Isolation switch for internal water tank pump so pipework can be left open over winter.
• Extra socket to front dining area – not easy to figure out a cable run on this one at first – remove aluminium table runner trim, cut out top 15mm on polystyrene insulation that is sandwiched between the front plywood boards, run some black corrugated flexible tubing in the recess with the cable in it, refit trim – drill hole for new socket, using a shallow hole saw and angle drill – you WILL NOT be able to do the job without these if you want the sockets position to mirror image the existing location.

Do not worry about picking up feeds for new sockets, or specialist fittings to break into the existing wiring. I found that by removing the panel in the bottom of the kitchen area under the sink cupboard I could access the cables I needed.
Remember the idea of the extra sockets is NOT to run extra appliances, but to allow you greater freedom in where you use your existing appliances.

Colin
1 - side view-800.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)2 - Front bike mount-800.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)3 - Premium Jockey wheel-800.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)4 - gas locker-800.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)5 - mover-800.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)6 - underneath socket-800.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)7 - rear carrier-800.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)8 - rear carrier side view-800.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)9 - gutter strip-800.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)10 - co-axial input-800.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)11 - adax heater-800.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)12 - adax heater socket-800.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)13 - kitchen drawer-800.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)14 - fridge fans switch-800.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)15 - fridge fans-800.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)16 - 12v and coaxial output for tv-800.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)17 - mount for tv-800.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)18 - extra socket under bed, Trumatherme hot water switch and mover isolator-800.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)19 - extra wardrobe storage-800.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)20 - water pump isolator switch-800.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)21 - extra front window ledge socket-800.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)[[

You can still open the rear window, and that is one of the two reasons I went this route. When the bikes are off just rotate the arms out of the way.
On my previous three vans the carrier was fitted with top mount fitted through the awning rail and so this was not possible without removing the carrier when on site, as you have found out.
- This method of fitting is neater as the mid rail is not such a complicated profile and keeps its original shape when the mounts are fitted.
- Because we have a fixed bed we have lost a window and I wanted to keep air-flow up in hot summers.

I have only seen this done once before, on a van sold through AL. This had an Onmi carrier fitted but they had left the rear grab rail in place and screwed down at an angle to mount the brackets, instead of bolting through at 90 degrees to the structural rail.

Colin

Quote: Deeps wrote in post #4

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Quote: eribaMotters wrote in post #1

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Collected from Lowdhams in Feb 2017

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Short ownership, Colin. Have you got another model in mind as a replacement?

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What, you were ready to make him a "cheeky" offer, were you?

Times are a changing and how we plan to use the van. In the past we have generally gone away for long breaks with van loaded exactly the same each time. This is a new van and weight distribution obviously differs from previous vans, We plan to take shorter breaks, so I wanted the option of bike/s at front or rear to get the best nose weight match.
I thought a while about the rear grab rail and decided against top mount being on this. It could have thrown the angle of the carrier out and also unsure of the leverage forces it would put on the handle mounts.

Colin

You should be able to unscrew the bottom panel under the sink unit and acces the mains circuit. I spliced into this and ran a spur to a socket I located inside the cupboard. I have plugged the heater into this, sometimes using a plug in timer so the heater comes on in the early hours just before we wake up.

Colin

Dave,
I used the choci blocks, also taking a feed up to the extra socket just under the work surface.

Colin