a. No opinion
b. I believe it's because brake fluid can absorb moisture from the atmosphere which can lead to internal corrosion in the braking system. Presumably it laps up moisture at a steady level, no matter how many miles are covered. The period may be shorter after the initial stint because they can't guarantee all moisture would have been removed when changing.
c. Presume aircon is the same as b., but not so safety critical.
d. Correct

Fuel filter, it is not expensive and could ruin a holiday!
Sometimes you can get a problem after it is changed,
an airlock perhaps so get it done while there is no pressure

(a) If most of your refuelling is done at one of the big chains e.g. high turnover, fresh fuel in tanks, I'd tend to go with the manufacturers recommendations. Little station down the road who has a delivery twice a year allowing for a longer standing period in which to pick up sediment and moisture, I'd go with the more frequent option.
(b) Although you don't see it unless really looking for it on a car (on a motorcycle it's more obvious cos everything is open) the first fill of brake fluid removes a fine layer of internal rubber from the brake pipes. It's this dirt basically that gives the discolouration to the fluid early on in the cars/bikes life. Once this old fluid is flushed out - and a good garage will flush the system not simply refill with fresh oil - the oil maintains a lighter colour for much longer. That's not to say, however, that it shouldn't be changed due to moisture absorption etc. For the reasons stated, I myself have never understood why the first change is after 3yrs and bi-annually thereafter. I often think they've got it the wrong way round. It might of course be related to the fact that during the 4th year the pads are considered worn to the extent that fresher oil is required to maintain the same braking efficiency as when the car was newer.
(c) what happened to this question?
(d) no idea although I must say that when I had a pre-winter check last year (car 2 yrs old), the test on my air con system returned a "what's presently in here is rubbish - change it asap" which of course I did.
(e) also no idea although it's always been the case over here.

Edit: I've added this as a result of the post before mine......both typing a response at the same time. Everything I've either read or heard in connection with car a/c systems i.e. from the ADAC, VW dealer and local garage who in fact changed my a/c fluid last time around all advise using the a/c system regularly, if not all the time, that the car is being driven. This ensures that certain valves in the system are lubricated and function as intended. If the system is not regularly used there is a risk of these valves sticking necessitating expensive repairs to the entire system.

I'd heard that you should use the aircon for at least 10 minutes every week in order to circulate the gases, which include lubricants, that keep seals flexible and working properly. If the seals harden then gas leakage occurs and the aircon becomes less effective.

hi
Hi randa
if the brakes are done correctly every service you actually remove the fluid that has been heated and possible water, when the pads are changed, or any checking, de seizing, the fluid gets pushed out threw the bleed nipple some special clamps on the flexi brake pipe stop fluid going back the wrong way,..
fluid is then added to brake fluid bottle to replenish whats taken out and all bleed points are bled to remove any possible air

there is a possibility you guy may have done this is any pipes have been changed.

the vw suggested method of removal suggests total fluid change, which can be a nightmare to re bleed, some times the master seals can well cause further expense..
some dealers service the brakes without taking the wheels off, ie a visual check.. we have had fights with alloy to steel hubs to get wheel off after 3 years of dealer service, just to change the wheel for the spare on the motorway

fuel filter, I used to change every 10 000miles because the bio diesel can cause what look like slugs in the fuel system (giving the driver no power), the water content in diesel can also freeze in winter hence no start

the air con is a system that doesn't need re gassing unless the condenser, the pump, or any pipe work has developed a fault ie leaking
if its leaking the air con doesn't work any way,
I happen to know this after a stone was shot through the radiator on our car and caught the air con rad
the pollen filter may need changing, each year if it smells mouldy and there is a spray you can buy from a car place that require the air con on recirculation full blast you set the £11 aresol down behind the passenger seat and it kills and de ordour ies to stop is it Legionaires disease and other bugs.

if you have the 7 plug system no the plug doesn't get checked the 13 pin one does as there was extra equipment to buy for each testing station
the wiring is checked to ensure secured
and the towbar its self is check for security
you can read the mot class 4 manual on line good luck understanding it

the thing that is important and not part of the service, you have to ask, is the timing belt change, I am not sure if yours is a chain though, the recommended change is every 5 years or a specified certain milages which ever occurs first, change the altanator belt at same time

Hopefully all this info will help


((you may get a feeling I don't happen to trust dealers, this is because one near here whom (has now gone bust) we asked to plug computer into the ecu to see if everything was ok

decided a to mention my exhaust was rusty and needed changing asap
the original exhaust is still on the car some 6 years later and still doesn't blow

secondly riffled through my belongings that happened to have my meds in the boot, to look at the spare wheel

the computer plug is below the steering wheel not in the boot, is there no wonder why a 10 minute job turned into a delay of 3 hours, sadly I ended up being extremely upset, specially as id realised meds being disturbed... ))

I leave it permanently on as I like the air changed in my car regularly and a kilometre or so less on the fuel consumption isn't going to break the bank now is it?

Quote: Randa france wrote in post #11

---

No fancy camera or filters used, just a straight forward Canon Pocket digital. Good innit!

---

Yea, not bad for a little Canon Powershot A3100 IS although I'm guessing with values like ISO80, f/9 and a shutter speed of 1/100 you had the camera set to Auto mode. Naughty naughty.

Judging by the almost HDR effect you're still using an older version of Photoshop - I'd guess at version 7???

You can't beat a nice view of the steelworks

Quote: Randa france wrote in post #14

---

Only one question !!! How do you know all this?

---