I have always understood that this sort of fridge is more efficient on gas. I have some slight concerns about my fridge on electric (2002 Troll) and can get it down to a reasonable operating temperature but am not totally convinced. I did ask Islay about her fridge electric element replacement, but wasn't thrilled to hear that it required the complete removal of the fridge from the van to sort it out... Am following this thread with interest...

I did an experiment on my last September outing. A container of water put in the pre-cooled fridge freezer compartment. After a 3 hour journey it was starting to freeze on the cars 12V

Taffy, where are you measuring this temperature? That's very low for the main part of the fridge and a bit high for the freezer compartment.
Also, where in the world are you? The ambient temperature has a huge effect on absorption fridges, particularly on gas as it is not thermostatically controlled.

There is plainly nothing fundamentally wrong with the general condition of your fridge so I would point the finger at your electrical thermostat for your problems on ehu.

I know it sounds daunting to get the fridge out but it's not to bad really and shouldn't take an experienced person more than an hour for the whole job.

Removal of Fridge to Fit New Element

I wrote this guide on how to remove the fridge from my 1998 Familia a few years ago. I think the whole job took about a couple of hours. I've just had a look at how to upload the accompanying photographs but this site's instructions seem to be in German - is there a way round this?

Anyway, here is the guide in the meantime:

Removal of the stainless combined sink and gas-hob unit would allow the element to be replaced without the removal of the fridge - but on my 1998 Familia 310, there is no obvious way to remove the the sink/hob.

Incidentally, Electrolux has sold their caravan fridge division to a company called Dometic. There phone number is 01423 321 108.

If anyone else fancies tackling this job, here's how I went about it.

Disclaimer: If you choose to use any of this information please be aware that you do so at your own risk. I am not responsible for any injury, damage, loss or other costs resulting from the use or misuse of this information. If you are not confident, or more particularly, not competent, to tackle this job - DON'T do it.

The first two photos below show the removed element and where it is located when it's fitted.

element.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte) element a.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)

PROCEDURE

Turn off gas and disconnect all external and internal electricity power supplies.

(As your lay-out may differ, take photographs as you proceed - to aid refitting.)

INSIDE

Remove:

Fridge door (one large screw in top hinge)
.
Four fridge retaining screws (countersunk, 2 on each inside side of fridge). element b.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)

Gas ring control knobs, nuts and washers and fridge control knobs (but NOT the fridge electrical switches). (Photo 1) e 1.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)

Fridge door-locking button assembly (one screw).

Facing strip (by removing all screws through the strip and the screws through the lip of the sink. (Photo 1)e 1.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)

In the under-sink cupboard, loosen the clamp to the fridge gas supply pipe (to ease its later disconnection (in photo 4)). (Photo 2)

e 2.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)

In the under-sink cupboard, loosen (by a few turns) the two screws retaining the gas controls (in case the screws are protruding into the side of the

fridge). (Photo 3)e 3.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)

OUTSIDE

Remove:

Top and bottom vent panels (quarter turn of buttons).

Aluminium vent tube assembly (two screws on outer mounting plate, then a slip-fit). (Photo 4)e 4.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)

Upper cover plates (3 screws). (Photo 5)e 5.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)

Disconnect:

Gas supply to fridge (only to the fridge, not to the the hob). (Photo 6)e 6.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)

12v & 240v power supplies (one junction box inside each of top and bottom chambers).

INSIDE

Slide fridge out about 30mm to allow the removal of two self-tappers retaining the fridge's gas igniter assembly. (Photo 7)e 7.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)

Edge the gas igniter assembly out of the way (to the right) and remove the fridge.

Remove the cover to the electrical contacts (two screws) and disconnect the element's cables and remove all zip-ties.

Carefully prise open the top-cap and top-half of the galvanised tube. (Photo 8)e 8.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)

Carefully remove the element from the insulation inside the tube (by sliding it upwards).

Refitting is a reversal of the removal. Then check gas supply for leakage.

Hopefully, the photos re above.

Not to far just in Wales so no Antarctic temps. I am measuring the temperature with a fridge thermometer clipped on the middle shelf. It is a 2008 model.

Crickey! -3C in the main compartment is very impressive. Nothing wrong with your gasses,liquids and pipes.

My last trip when night time temps dropped below 10C, I turned the gas control down to 2 of 3 which kept everything OK overnight but back to 3 of 3 during the day (temps about 25C outside)


Back to testing the 230Vac on ehu for you now that the general temps have dropped.

If it was mine I would be thinking of some way to test the thermostat as opposed to the heating element. Unfortunately all roads lead to getting access to the rear of the fridge, either through the top (removal of hob in my case) or pulling the whole thing out which is a little different to the excellent guide from Tinkerbelle above. It would appear that each model Eriba has its own removal procedure for the fridge.

Incidentally, I work out the efficiency of the fridge on gas by listening to the electric thermostat clicking in and out.
The electric thermostat is essentially a mechanical device which operates a switch dependent on temperature. You can actually hear the switch operate by turning the electrical temp control up and down . There is a lag or hysteresis of a couple of numbers on the electrical setting. I like my fridge to be about 4 or 5 on the electrical setting so even when running on gas I can still rotate the electrical switch and hear the thermostat click in and out at settings either side of the one I'm after.