The side marker on our 1994 320GT has only one wire (12v +ve) and therefore the return is through the body (earth).

This seems contrary to the "norm" which is that road lights have their earth return (white) back to the car and not the caravan.

Has anyone any experience of this - is this "normal" for earlyish Eribas? Perhaps a continental design?

From my research I have found that the three "earth" connections on the 13-pin connector are for different circuits and must be kept separate on the van, so I am confused as to why there is only one wire on my marker light.

PS the other marker light has a -ve return wire. What's going on??

Thanks for any ideas

Dave

As the other marker light has two wires as normal, perhaps the missing negative wire on the other side has got pushed back inside the bodywork. Maybe you could poke about with a little bit of hooked stiff wire to try and fish it out.

Hello Ray,

yes, I had the very same thought - but there is no sign of it - the hole is quite small. I will have another poke about.

I also had a look under the van and identified the cable - but without cutting into it I cannot be sure if it contains one or two wires! All the signs are that this is the way it was designed - but I could so easily be wrong.

I was hoping that someone on here would be able to say with authority that " Eribas built in Europe at that time were earthed through the body", then I could press ahead and wire up the replacement marker light.

Thanks again for your thoughts

Dave

If you have a multi-meter set it to 20vdc and test your wiring from positive to chassis, if you get a 12v reading then it's earthed through the body, is one way.

Power off 12v system set meter to ohms one lead to the negative side of the bulb holder and one lead to the chassis would also give you a (short) reading, if not there is a negative wire missing for the return to the battery.

Quote: Sportique wrote in post #3

---

Hello Ray,

yes, I had the very same thought - but there is no sign of it - the hole is quite small. I will have another poke about.

I also had a look under the van and identified the cable - but without cutting into it I cannot be sure if it contains one or two wires! All the signs are that this is the way it was designed - but I could so easily be wrong.

I was hoping that someone on here would be able to say with authority that " Eribas built in Europe at that time were earthed through the body", then I could press ahead and wire up the replacement marker light.

Thanks again for your thoughts

Dave

---

Quote: Phillip wrote in post #4

---

If you have a multi-meter set it to 20vdc and test your wiring from positive to chassis, if you get a 12v reading then it's earthed through the body, is one way.

Power off 12v system set meter to ohms one lead to the negative side of the bulb holder and one lead to the chassis would also give you a (short) reading, if not there is a negative wire missing for the return to the battery.

---

Dave.

You say that you've looked under the van but.

Have you traced this wire back to its source, the '92 eriba has a junction box (distribution board) underneath. In your position not being able to tell if it's single or twin.

If twin then it looks like you'll have to connect a twin to the end of this cable and very carefully draw this through like a normal rewiring job, not easy or without its pit falls.

If your lucky a one man job, safer with two, one feed one pull.

Not being able to see what your playing with, visual. No pictures, info is always just general.

Quote: Phillip wrote in post #7

---

Dave.

You say that you've looked under the van but.

Have you traced this wire back to its source, the '92 eriba has a junction box (distribution board) underneath. In your position not being able to tell if it's single or twin.

If twin then it looks like you'll have to connect a twin to the end of this cable and very carefully draw this through like a normal rewiring job, not easy or without its pit falls.

If your lucky a one man job, safer with two, one feed one pull.

Not being able to see what your playing with, visual. No pictures, info is always just general.

---

You mean the one on the side of the wardrobe, no toilet in our puck.

Sargent EC30 control panel. (cheap and cheerful)

There was only one main fuse to cover the 12v electrics when we brought the van in 2001, an old radio was there so I removed it to make way for this Sargent EC30 control Panel, very basic but then it only covers the basic 12v system.

To be honest, the 12v and 240v were in a bit of a state so I've re-wired and I'm in the proceeds of installing a Widney (heat delivery system) they call it (sounds posh), a plinth heater by another name. These have to be wired in permanently via an isolation switch into a sealed cavity, this I'm going to control via a wireless thermostat as it will be under the bed.

Back to your electrics, if the hole is tight to pull a new cable through, enlarge this a little. having found the other end of the cable best way is to bare the wires then solder your new cable end to the old, a little insolation tape to make it neat, now you have a nice slim joint to pull through. Just taping the two cable together makes them to thick and bulky.

Make sure you take the double cable insulation right through the hole to conform with wiring regs. It's there to protect the cable from damage ie rubbing on the metal van and shorting.

Edit: Just done me a cuppa, had another thought. Put your lights on take a small lead say a mutimeter lead then short out the negative side of the lamp holder to the chassis. If earthed via the chassis this should put your light on.
If so what is missing is a short cable say an Inch long soldered to the negative side of lamp holder with a crimped on O ring which is then earth to the chassis via the fixing screw.

Quote: Phillip wrote in post #9

---

Edit: Just done me a cuppa, had another thought. Put your lights on take a small lead say a mutimeter lead then short out the negative side of the lamp holder to the chassis. If earthed via the chassis this should put your light on.
If so what is missing is a short cable say an Inch long soldered to the negative side of lamp holder with a crimped on O ring which is then earth to the chassis via the fixing screw.

---

It may help to have one person gently pull on the cable at the light end and someone else watching at the junction box end to see if the cable moves. This may indicate the likelihood of being cable to pull a new cable through. If it doesn't budge at all, it is a good sign that pulling through a new cable is not going to be straightforward.
As someone suggested, soldering the new cable to the old rather than just taping it, makes it less likely for the new cable to become disconnected half way (leaving you really stuffed).

Your welcome Dave, do you only have the one side marker light. I take it we're talking of the same things.

Top offside front and nearside front the small clear/red marker light. If so have you opened the other side

Quote: Stevejoyce wrote in post #11

---

It may help to have one person gently pull on the cable at the light end and someone else watching at the junction box end to see if the cable moves. This may indicate the likelihood of being cable to pull a new cable through. If it doesn't budge at all, it is a good sign that pulling through a new cable is not going to be straightforward.
As someone suggested, soldering the new cable to the old rather than just taping it, makes it less likely for the new cable to become disconnected half way (leaving you really stuffed).

---

Philip,

Yes, one red/white marker on each side at top/front of the van side.

As mentioned earlier the right-hand marker has a twin-core cable for live and return. This is why I have been suspicious of the left-hand marker wiring.

I have now traced the cable underneath, and it bypasses the junction box, and carries on to the right-hand side. Then vanishes up into the body with another cable, towards the right-hand marker. By feeling the two cables it is pretty clear that the left-hand cable is single core. So I have deduced from this that this is all by design and the left-hand marker is designed to earth through the fixing screw into the body.

In short, my fears seem to be have been unfounded. So I have fitted the left-hand marker connected up the live and tested same by applying +12v to pin 7 on the 7N plug. All working and no smell of burning!

Thanks to all for comments/help - these will be useful in the future

Dave

Your very welcome Dave, successful outcome is always nice.