Hi All,
We just bought an Eriba 310 from 2011. Unfortunately, the gas locker door has excensive corrosion. Can anyone tell me the exact way how to remove the frame of this door to replace the front aluminum panel?
Cheers Hans

Carefully remove the soft fluffy gap filler. You will then see 4 small screws in the channel. Remove these. Then VERY carefully prise off the frame preferably with something non metallic to avoid damaging the frame. The frame will have to be reused and it is easily damaged but is only held on with sealant.

Hans,

Top half of frame removed

When I first noticed corrosion on ours probably about 5 years ago I contacted AL (now Leisure First) and Jandi. AL said they would not follow it up and quoted £1200 for a new door and Jandi contacted Hymer but Hymer very quickly denied any responsibility.. A new door through Jandi would at the time cost £1000.

On a recent visit to Leisure First I spotted they have a couple of 2012 vans for sale, both with serious corrosion on the locker doors. One covered in black vinyl to disguise it.
I would hope any potential buyer would spot this and have repaired before purchase.

Was it just that one model year? Any idea what they did, or didn't so, to cause the problem? Is it just a lack of drain holes? If enough problems exist and enough owners pursue them Hymer might well have to cave and accept fault? A class action, though a tad smaller :-)

It seems be just 2012 MY so some late 2011 vans are affected too. Hymer must have changed their sealing process for that year and reverted back for 2013.
Judging by the corrosion it was a problem all around the frame and even the lock holes. Lack of drainage holes just made the problem worse as the water had no escape. It would still have rotted out though.

Is there any evidence of mastic sealant between the aluminium edge trim and the panel? I can’t see any in the photographs. If not then water will inevitably have crept under the trim and into the panel over a period of a decade, with the results which we can see. I wonder whether this issue coincides with the ceasing of production at Cernay when Eriba went bankrupt and the transfer to Germany. I seem to recall that there were rumours of a certain bolshiness on the part of the French workforce, soon to become redundant, and a lack of cooperation with the new owners, Hymer.

There certainly wasn't much in the way of sealant but I seem to remember there was some, obviously not enough around the frame.

I may be wrong but didn't production move to Germany in 2009?
The rest of our van is extremely well built and we've had it from almost new.

They still haven't entirely solved this corrosion problem. We are buying a 2016 Troll and it has some small areas of corrosion bubbling through top right. I will attempt to correct this myself as a new door is £££££ and I don't want the dealer to attempt it. I shall remove the brush strip and out aluminium trim and reseal, as this probably the source of the problem. Reskinning is also out of the question, because of the patterned aluminium that has been used. It could have been caused by stone damage, so I will investigate getting that panel vinyl coated to help withstand chips.

It's only at that one point - I should think it's poorly applied sealant, or badly sprayed aluminium...

Simboc2004's photo looks like it's the frame rusting through from underneath and not bimetalic corrosion to me.

Steve

like bimeta

Hi all

Sorry to jump on the end of this but I've just got back from a break to discover that the gas door on my Troll 530 is badly stained and soaking wet. having taken the left lock off the door is saturated inside. Before I inflict worse damage, does the furry strip just pull out of the slot with brute force or is there a gap I've missed?