Motor mover
Hi,
We have a new Triton 418, which we picked up a few months ago. Everything is going great except a few niggly things (I managed to break one of the arms lifting the seat to clean the water tank - who would have thought they'd be so flimsy?!, we still have a couple of dodgy lights which go on/off when the stove is on, and the stove always has trouble staying lit until I turn the little hexagonal screw under the knob clockwise a little).
Anyway, I digress. This weekend when we went away the motor mover battery had died before we even started our journey. It had only been 3 weeks since our last trip. Once we got home at the end of the weekend it seemed to have recharged and worked well when we put it away. I understand that it is not recharged while driving, but instead when it is plugged in at the campsite or at home. However, doesn't it seem strange that it would run out of power after only 3 weeks of being last plugged in?
As always, thanks in advance for any comments or advice.
If it was charged up 3 weeks ago then there is some thing wrong for sure, either dodgy battery from new, or there is something draining the battery. Maybe buy a multimeter to check your battery they are not a lot and are really handy to have for all sorts of electrical problems on the caravan. I do not have a lot of knowledge as some on here so maybe someone will be along with more advice. Morphy
New Troll 540GT on the way Silver Skoda Octavia Scout residing in sunny Lancashire.
Your battery *can* be charged from the car when you are on the road. Obvously that would need the appropriate wiring in place and 13 pin electrics to provide the source of the power (pin 9, IIRC). If it is a new van with a battery fitted from new, I would be a little surpised if that system wasn't in place. Worth checking to be sure...
RE: Motor mover
in Anything Eriba-related Tue Jun 15, 2021 11:20 amby Steamdrivenandy • | 1.048 Posts
Re the aside, I very much doubt that tweaking a gas knob will affect the burner's performance. It sounds like you probably have a thermocouple sensor that isn't in the direct flamepath as it should be and that isn't warming up enough to keep the gas valve open. You can often bend them very slightly into the flame, or reset the flame outlet holes so the flame engulfs the sensor. Otherwise it's a faulty thermocouple and is a dealer repair under guarantee.
Having a voltmeter installed is always a good idea as it allows you to be certain of the battery's state of charge at any time.
Batteries are charged by the car's alternator whilst driving, if you have the correct connections. However it can be a bit iffy as the car's systems give priority to recharging it's own battery following start up, so you never really know how much is going to the caravan battery.
If it's a new battery that is fully charged it should not go flat in 3 weeks in spring/summer, so it sounds as if there's either something draining it when stored, or the batteries duff, or it wasn't fully charged when you thought it was. As Morphy suggest a multimeter will help identify such issues.
I had nothing to do on this hot afternoon
But to settle down and write you a line
Skoda Karoq 1.5 Petrol DSG
RE: Motor mover
in Anything Eriba-related Tue Jun 15, 2021 3:19 pmby Julie Grafo • | 3.554 Posts
The other issue maybe that the battery is not being charged when on hook up. Depends on how/when the battery was installed. Ours was fitted by the previous owner into a Dutch van purely for the mover. So the day before we leave a site we plug in the smart charger to top the battery up. It’s always charged at home between uses.
Julie & Neil. 2008 530GT pushing Honda CR-V 1.6 iDTEC SE+
Thanks for all the replies. I'm right in thinking that it is a different battery to the one which came with the caravan originally, aren't I? Under the seat alongside the water tank there are two batteries, one encased in a white plastic box with a yellow top and the other just screwed down to the floor. I don't see how something can be draining the battery if its sole purpose is for the mover.
Note: I am completely clueless when it comes to things electrical or mechanical, so I am most probably completely wrong.
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Here is an image of the screw on the hob which needs to be turned to the right whenever we take the caravan out and try to use the stove. We spoke to the technician from where we bought the van when we first had a problem and he suggested this... though he didn't say that we would need to do it every time! It seems to work though.
I don't know if I need to do it after each journey as it loosens again on the road.
RE: Motor mover
in Anything Eriba-related Tue Jun 15, 2021 7:30 pmby Steamdrivenandy • | 1.048 Posts
In this case a picture or pictures might be worth several thousand words, all speaking at cross purposes.
The electrical configuration of Touring vans has altered over the decades. Not only that but the standard spec. of a Touring van does not include a battery or charger, they are factory fit cost options. That has meant that a great many vans have been supplied without the benefit of an 'Autark' Pack. It also means that many have had electrical packages retro fitted either by Eriba authorised dealers, other dealers, mobile caravan techs and DIY. This means that the equipment used can vary tremendously and without details completely the wrong information can be provided in good faith.
As to the gas fitting I can see no reason why tightening the nut on the knob fitting should affect the flame in the manner described, as it just locates the knob in its correct position and I've not heard of them loosening during transit either.
I had nothing to do on this hot afternoon
But to settle down and write you a line
Skoda Karoq 1.5 Petrol DSG
2019 Troll 540. I have recently had exactly the same gas hob issue. Neither burner would stay lit after ignition. This obviously suggests a thermocouple issue but as it was both rings I was sceptical. Were there 2 thermocouples? Was the gas valve faulty?
I was preparing to lift the hob to investigate and when I removed the first control knob it was apparent that the retaining nut was loose. On the other knob the retaining nut was only just located on the thread. Tightening both up returned the hob to full function. I can only assume that the circuitry requires full connectivity through the knobs which was not complete when the retaining its were loose.
7B1243D9-9AF2-4C55-AA1D-51F5730E64FD.jpeg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)
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