Thanks for all the suggestions but,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, after bashing it with the plastic handle of a screwdriver, twisting it with a pair of pliers and swearing profusely at it (this was the bit that worked in my opinion) it lit and stayed lit so fingers crossed

Quote: Old Rocker wrote in post #16

---

swearing profusely at it (this was the bit that worked in my opinion)

---

well done

Can't beat a good bash with a screwdriver

I think probably giving it a good rub down with very fine emery cloth and bending it with the pliers, I also gave the round bit that makes the jets a good rub down on the little bits where the jets hit the thermocouple (at least I know what I mean) but the swearing really helped

Well the hob worked fine after I had a play with the thermocouple, and even worked fine after the mobile service man came hoeever it has startec playing up again. The service chappie talked about having to take the fridge out to replace the thermocouple which put me off. Has anyone had their fridge out?
I know Hampshireman has recently had a thermocouple changed do you know if they took the fridge out or managed to do it through the vents?

We hade the same problem and a new thermo couple from SMEV and fitted by caravan firm in Fordingbridge as sorted it according to Carole who uses the two burners.

You shouldn't need to pull the fridge out in order to gain access to the underside of the hob.

The hob is secured by corner brackets (items 682 shown on attached dwg); these rotate to clamp to the underside of the worktop - loosening a screw half a dozen turns or so will release and turn its bracket anticlockwise by 90° to clear the worktop.
When the hob is free its gas supply pipe can be accessed for removal by lifting the hob at the front (before you do this remove the glass lid by loosening the two hinge clamp screws).
In my experience thermocouples rarely fail and problems are mainly due to loose or grotty connections at the gas valve end - just unscrew it, give it a clean and reconnect without over-tightening.
You don't need to reconnect the hob to retest - just heat up the thermocouple with a gas lighter, turn and hold its corresponding gas valve in (as if you were lighting the ring), remove the heat and release the gas valve - but don't turn it off. Wait half a minute or so for it to cool and if successful you'll hear a 'click' from the valve as the solenoid in the valve is released.
If still no joy, the fault could be with the solenoid in the valve. Prove this by fitting a working thermocouple from one of the other rings to the suspect valve and retest.

A gas tightness test will need to be carried out after everything's been screwed back together.

John, as ever, your advice is most appreciated. I'll pass this info on to the engineer. I wish you could extend the area you work in!!

Thanks for your kind words of appreciation, me Old Rocker.

Quote: Old Rocker wrote in post #26

---

...wish you could extend the area you work in

---

Do you have access to a small blowtorch? Light the hob, keep the blue tip of the blow torch on the tip of the thermocouple... If it holds on then may just need repositioning. The thermocouple could have worked loose from the back of the control valve as well. Think it's a 7mm open spanner to tighten it up.. Is it the one over the fridge or is it the draw side? Finally is the gas burning blue? If yellow, or floating, than you may have a blocked jet, or ventury tube... Both fixed by taking apart and putting back together again after a little clean!

Sorry missed your last query and no they didn't remove the fridge to do it.