Although I've worked on dozens of car drum brakes over the years, for some unknown reason I've been a bit nervous about touching the caravan brakes. Anyway, this morning I decided to have a go.

The main problem lies in gaining access to the rear of the drums. Firstly you have to jack one wheel high enough to clear the ground and then support the van with an axle stand, chock the other wheel and the jockey wheel and lower the corner steadies to keep the van stable and safe.

Access to the rear of the brake drums on my Triton is not helped by having a mover fitted and the mudflaps were also in just the wrong place for comfort.

With the wheel off the ground and with the aid of a torch, this is what you will see.

Brakes03.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)

There are two holes in the drum backplate both of which should be sealed from the elements with plastic plugs. On mine the plugs were only fitted in the innermost holes.

Brakes02.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)

With the plastic plugs removed you now have access to the brake lining inspection hole (the outermost one) and to the brake shoe adjusting hole (nearest the hub)

If you look carefully you will see that there is an arrow engraved above the inner hole showing the direction the adjuster needs to be turned to put the brake friction material closer to the drum inner surface to compensate for wear.

In the picture you can see the end of the brake shoe in the outer hole with quite a bit of friction material still present. This, however, is only an indication as the only way to do a meaningful check is to remove the brake drums. Through the inner hole you can just see one tooth of the adjuster wheel.

Being careful only to turn the wheel in the direction of rotation, check that it rotates without any sound of rubbing from the brakes. By putting a small, flat bladed screwdriver through the inner hole and turning the adjuster wheel one click at a time in the direction of the arrow, you will feel and hear the brake shoes making contact with the drum as the wheel becomes harder to turn. Once you feel a real resistance, you need to turn the adjuster in the opposite direction to the arrow until the wheel just turns freely without the brakes rubbing.

Replace the plastic bung(s) and do the same with the other side.

My main purpose in doing this procedure was to check on the state of the brake linings and as I did not have to turn the adjusters more than a couple of clicks, it was not necessary to readjust the operation of the brake cables. That can wait until I have the brakes serviced by a caravan engineer.

I have a 2-tonne trolley jack that I put under the axle near the wheel and then put the axle stand next to it once I have sufficient clearance.

While working I leave the trolley jack in place to give a bit of additional security - just in case.

Well, I certainly won't be carrying the trolley jack as it is very heavy.

I do carry a bottle jack in the gas locker but to date haven't had to use it. I think that if I needed to change a wheel in the UK I'd call out a breakdown service under my cover and on the Continent take advantage of my Red Pennant policy, after all, that's why I pay the premiums. I think changing a wheel beside a busy motorway or on any road at night is just too risky.

Too many people have been killed or seriously injured while doing roadside repairs, including members of the emergency organisations.

You do know what I tow the Triton with , don't you?

The same caveat could apply to just about all DIY tasks and I think goes without saying.