hello
hoping someone can help
don't really do electrics despite the hair do looking like attached to live cable but can change switches, batteries and plug stuff in .un screw screws and the like..

am laid here in eriba at 2 am thinking the 500 watt ultra heat is not working, the thermostat switch fitted new last back end, is on 9 and its 12 degrees inside at the height of switch it clicks if turn thermostat back and forth but am still cold till about 7am when the sun shines in through windows again and we quickly raise temp to 27 this last week phew but that's the sun not heater, (we have separate cat curtains rather than the blinds)

could the 500 watt element be erm worn out.. can it be changed or switched places with the 1000 element to run on 500watts setting
1000 is a bit costly to run hence the need for 500watts,
is there another electric brain that works this heater that needs replacement?

shivering pop grabbing slanket..
look forward to any ideas regarding a fix, really miss this ultra heat working,
thanks

many thanks, after getting so cold and waterworkings, I exited the eriba, and returned at 4.30am at 5am the heater started to work but then went off at 12.5 degrees height of temp at the switch grumble
the wardrobe has all clothes in vac bags so doesn't absorb heat in the same way without bags,padded coats are so much thinner
the switch is on the wardrobe wall up top, the fan was on switch to right
the ultra heat used to work around 6 so I guess things are wrong place as you say, or somethings failing failed.
its been 24 hours of situations way out there, and only now 4 hours sleep.

will go and view the link, is it a picture of sandy warm beaches with gentle waves crashing on the sand to inspire warmth and relaxation lol.[ just jesting].

There are two elements in a Truma Ultraheat, they are each rated at 1kW when connected to a 230V supply.
When you set 500W/1kW/2kW on the control panel then relays in the control box at the back of the heater select different combinations of the two heaters. You should be able to hear them clicking as you change the switch setting. (Even I can and my better half is convinced I am deaf!)
When set to 2kW then 230V is connected to both elements so that they each give their full heat. (They are in parallel)
When set to 1kW then 230V is connected to just one element and the other is not used.
When set to 500W then 230V is connected to one end of each element and the other ends of the two elements are connected together. This means that each element sees only 115V so only half the normal current flows. Half the voltage times half the current gives a quarter of the rated heat from each element (i.e. 250W) so you get 500W in total. (They are in series.)
If you are getting no output on 500W two possibilities come immediately to mind:
1. One of the elements is broken, this would mean you would only get 1kW if you select 2kW, you might or might not get 1kW when set to 1kW depending on which element is broken, and you certainly would get nothing when set to 500W.
2. There is something amiss in the control box, e.g. the relays are known to fail.
Beyond doing the comparison of the heat given out when selecting 1kW or 2kW you might be best seeking out someone with a multimeter who does do electricity, or reverting to gas until you can.
All the best.....

thank you George WM for explaining and taking the time. that's really clear.

clearly will have / need to call someone. to rule out one or other
many thanks
P

Hi pop540, just to confirm what Aaron suggested have you got the temperature thermocouple bypass fitted, it fits in a jack plug at the bottom of the fire. It's a common problem with the Ultraheat as the original temp sensor is fitted in the cupboard and when the cupboard reaches the set temperature it turns the fire off. I am sure all the big Eriba dealers are aware of this problem when fitting the Ultraheat kit but they never fit the thermocouple by pass unit.

yes ive had it off before for vacuuming will do
thank you for your excellent advice will go do asap

DSC_1241[1].jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)did the front off and found element cold
been upside down, inside out and removed the cover in bottom of wardrobe, found the box of controls, located bottom of fire,

removed in-coming hook up power from side of eriba and removed the screw to lift the cover off

its a circuit board with bits on see picture
took the 3 block covers off to find soot on centre one
the relays look like the old car points

went through the motions of 500 my gosh the element worked could see waves of heat in torch light
turned onto 1000 and that clicked
decided to try the 2000 but as approached 500 watts there was a flash of light in wardrode and we went dark
moving the seat it was the 2 switches joined together on the bip rather than the rcd switch that had pinged
turned ultra heat switch off took covers off
re powered
and turned the 2000 that clicked
tried 500 again element worked but again the points flashed when switched the switch to 0, it also flashes when temp selected on thermostat and puts in darkness, its was the middle point block that flashed
switched all off went and tea, returned and now the 500 doesn't work or flash in wardrobe no heat from element


1000 clicks and so does 2000 not multi metre checked

it may be need a new circuit board or points bit, what do you think?


update after the 500 went off warmed eriba on 1000 setting on switch
turned off before sleep at the switch, the green light was out, at 4am it was extremely warm in eriba, switch still off heater on
un hooked power whipped out the wardrobe bottom and gently moved all the point switches,

was going to remove the mains inlet wires to the control thingy,, but could not work out how to disconnect, there are some floppy plastic things

before hooking power back up,
the heater is now off..

it would of been easier to sort at an separate isolation switch than go through all that.
the fridge has a 3 pin plug and switchable socket on its mains input lead, perhaps these heaters should be like that as well..
will consider, the belt and braces.

always thought the switch on wall was the one that controlled the on and off. seems not if the control thingy is failing. sticking or whatever has happened.

thanks for all advice

will catchup later zz time

yep I agree, way above comfort zones.. especially where its all situated as well, can hardly walk this morning.

have been touring the interweb wave of ultraheat and found a rather informative post, its the longest in this thread by Gary http://www.touringandtenting.com/forums/topic/47409-truma-ultraheat-not-working-on-electric/http://www.touringandtenting.com/forums/topic/47409-truma-ultraheat-not-working-on-electric/
thought may add to the knowledge base on here..

another post in the links workshop hinted there was something about solder on the n side failing and this was common on 2000 boards there is spurs mentioned, and faulty fuse holders
and transformer (cant help thinking of a car turning into a robot ) not sending green light up to switch and the points welding selves together, hence heater not switching off
an intermittent working.

to be honest haven't found a fuse for heater, although haven't looked there was a green light

the more think about the situation the more would prefer to pull a plug from a switchable socket to totally isolate the ultra heater, from use if it switched the bip off again, this would give me piece of mind and enable the fridge to work on electric should the pcb the pictured control thingy fail again in future... the heater is warm to lean over when it works independently of the switch, also saves removing all clothes, and undoing screws to get wardrobe false floor out to in my case gently move contacts power off to stop heater working..

no heat then too much heat talk about extremes
will update when fixed..
thank you for all advice and support
P

meant wardbrobe items hahahahaha
many thanks

an update
a new control pcb thing has been fitted by someone in the know, and who has better flexibility long arms, and it has solved the ultra heat issues, although went to put the fan on tonight it didn't work
a cuppa later with coffee cake, slid the bench towards centre to lift the woody bit before sliding back to prop the bench up.
somehow the second fuse a 7.5 amp had blown in the bip, replaced with a 5amp fuse till able to replace with another 7.5amp, and the kitchen tap started buzzing, turned that off and tried the fan, all seems well again.

learnt the second fuse runs the taps so this winter once blown out fresh water pipes ( also mentioned in the manual,) can remove fuse..

its strange the pack of multi amp fuses don't have 7.5amp fuses included...

one final point to mention is despite the intermittent issues and the final none shut down, am still pleased this ultraheat option is fitted. considering the eribas age one control pcb thing in 10 years of ownership is not bad..

thanks for all help regarding this.