Screws behind Herzim
Screws behind Herzim
in Anything Eriba-related Sat Jul 09, 2016 4:38 pmby highmiler • | 367 Posts
I spent last weekend cleaning my Troll after a 3 week trip to France , with some very wet weather.
Some of the narrow Herzim strip ,around the door, around the gas bay, and around the access under seat hatch, is going to need replacing.
Some had come away from the metal and needed easing back with a blunt kitchen knife, and I also tried to tighten some of the exposed screws, which
didn't all screw up tightly.
My question is what am I screwing into here, the metal skin and wood behind or more metal? Would anyone recommend replacing these with slightly larger
diameter screws? I have read the 10 year rolling restoration blog but that doesn't say.
Highmiler.
Highmiler
RE: Screws behind Herzim
in Anything Eriba-related Sun Jul 10, 2016 10:20 amby Aaron Calder • | 3.834 Posts
I'm pretty sure that the Herzim screws are stainless steel self-tappers that go into the steel frame of the caravan. Slightly larger diameter ones should of course be tighter but they could be difficult to drive in fully and may require slight enlarging of the holes.
Would it not be better to replace the original screws and use Loctite to secure them?
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2003 Triton 420 and Audi A4 2.0Tfsi S-line SE Cabriolet
the waist screws go through the alloy rail, through the skin and into the metal structure
the awning screw, go through alloy rail, through roof metal skin into metal structure there is a picture some where of a naked eriba, i.e structure no skin
the screws its debateable but mine were changed for stainless steel ones, the heads tend to rust. specially in the lowerest rail near floor..
Eriba troll 540 2003 likes constant hugs, and buffs and the odd cuppa.
RE: Screws behind Herzim
in Anything Eriba-related Mon Jul 11, 2016 7:54 amby cabbie37 • | 695 Posts
Helicoils, I think, are only used to repair damaged 'machine' screw thread. ie, your typical style of bolt. If I have assumed correctly that the screws we are talking about are of a 'wood screw' style, a Helicoil won't help..
http://www.helicoil.in/pdf/helicoil%20catalogue.pdf
cheers...
RE: Screws behind Herzim
in Anything Eriba-related Mon Jul 11, 2016 10:26 amby Pepé Le Pew • | 2.752 Posts
Quote: Aaron Calder wrote in post #2I agree. It's tricky, this one - making holes bigger to accommodate bigger self-tappers is fine if you've got plenty of material to work with, but the frame section isn't all that generous.
I'm pretty sure that the Herzim screws are stainless steel self-tappers that go into the steel frame of the caravan. Slightly larger diameter ones should of course be tighter but they could be difficult to drive in fully and may require slight enlarging of the holes.
Would it not be better to replace the original screws and use Loctite to secure them?
There are two other things that might work as an alternative to a thread lock. One is to push a blob of epoxy putty into the hole and put a little smear of Vaseline on the screw thread prior to re-inserting it before the putty goes off (so you can get the screw out again subsequently), and the other is to use a length of heat shrink on the thread.
I don't know whether the heat shrink would do the job or not - I only just thought of it.
.
yy-R56kh
RE: Screws behind Herzim
in Anything Eriba-related Mon Jul 11, 2016 11:42 amby Aaron Calder • | 3.834 Posts
perhaps screw is tight enough but looks slack
check for any gaps on the white seal known in eriba world as underlay
the normal fix for water tracking down screws is to put a blob of buytl sealer on screw in hole
I change my screws for same sized just stainless
what was the question?
why are we suggesting gluing in, have I missed a deleted post?
Eriba troll 540 2003 likes constant hugs, and buffs and the odd cuppa.
RE: Screws behind Herzim
in Anything Eriba-related Mon Aug 22, 2016 11:20 amby hampshireman (deleted)
Bits in here might help me with the blind problem I have posted in ExpressGaffervan.
What are the bracket screws going into? I reckon each side of the window frame under the vertical members of the blinds is a steel member of the structure and thats behind the insulation membrane behind the inner skin. An epoxy filler sounds a good idea.
Using the same length of screws makes sense, but the larger diameter screws I am using only go so far in then come up against a solid object - the steel maybe?
Must find a diagram of the PuckL structural frame.
Puck 225L pushing CMax 1.9TDI Ghia
Pepe's Walk
RE: Screws behind Herzim
in Anything Eriba-related Mon Aug 22, 2016 12:28 pmby Pepé Le Pew • | 2.752 Posts
Quote: hampshireman wrote in post #10Do the photographs here help, Derek?
Bits in here might help me with the blind problem I have posted in ExpressGaffervan.
What are the bracket screws going into? I reckon each side of the window frame under the vertical members of the blinds is a steel member of the structure and thats behind the insulation membrane behind the inner skin. An epoxy filler sounds a good idea.
Using the same length of screws makes sense, but the larger diameter screws I am using only go so far in then come up against a solid object - the steel maybe?
Must find a diagram of the PuckL structural frame.
I don't know how reliable they are in terms of the frame of your particular van - my guess is that essentially smaller vans have the same framework as bigger ones, but I don't think I'd depend on it if I was waving a drill around...
I'd be surprised if all the blind fixings go into the framework. The blind itself isn't very heavy or subject to lots of stress. The only significant operational force is acting downwards rather than pulling away from the wall, and on that basis I don't think it would need to be screwed into the frame like its life depended on it. Not only that, but the blind components aren't exactly what you'd call heavy-duty, either.
You could always check to see what's behind the fixing points with a stud detector (if you've got one) or a magnet.
I think I'd be leery of filling the fixing holes with something which sets rock hard. If you let it go off before reinserting the screw you'll have to drill a pilot hole first, and if you reinsert the screw before it cures you'll have to get it right first time. Not only that, but if you do put the screw in before it cures you might have a bit of bother getting it out again later on should you need to.
I think I'd try putting something a little more forgiving into the holes. Something like like this - it's gap-filling, flexible grab adhesive, and it might just do the trick. You'd be able to remove the screws later, it doesn't set rock hard or expand, and it gives you time to work.
I'd give that a whirl. Squidge a bit into each hole then reinsert and gently nip up the original screw and tape the entire blind framework to the wall (like you did before) until it's gone off.
.
yy-R56kh
RE: Screws behind Herzim
in Anything Eriba-related Mon Aug 22, 2016 12:57 pmby hampshireman (deleted)
Cheers Pete, 1st sensible idea and answer. Will investigate the product and yes seen those snaps thanks
Puck 225L pushing CMax 1.9TDI Ghia
Pepe's Walk
RE: Screws behind Herzim
in Anything Eriba-related Mon Aug 22, 2016 3:13 pmby Aaron Calder • | 3.834 Posts
I seem to recall that when I had to refix a couple of loose screws in my blinds, they simply went into the cardboard-like wall lining.
I repaired them using small plastic cavity wall fixings that expand behind the board. To date I haven't had any further problems.
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2003 Triton 420 and Audi A4 2.0Tfsi S-line SE Cabriolet
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