For various reasons I swapped from a 3004 to a 1300 stabiliser on my 2017 Triton
The 1300 certainly groaned a lot. AL said that the friction dial should be taken up to ratchet point and then given one full turn.
Checking towball after a very noisy journey I found that the sides where the friction pads contact are polished to shiny.
On the next leg of the journey last week I sanded and cleaned the ball and took the dial up to ratchet point and then just added 3 clicks.
Ball still has shined up again but was definitely quieter.
I think the pads have glazed from being too tight so will find a way to bust the glaze. Next time I'll just take the dial up to the ratchet point and no further - which is what the manual says. I don't see why AL said one full turn.....

It’s a shame you changed from the 3004 back to the older 1300 as it is much much easier to tap out the friction pads and deglaze them on the 3004.
The actual pads themselves are different as well. On the 1300 the friction pads are on a metal shaft with a variety of combinations of washers and a ball race bearing on the shaft. I was always under the impression that some of the noises might come from these parts so I used to use a careful application of some appropriate lube on the shaft. The 3004 pads are a one piece design with no other components.
Hope this makes sense.

My Troll 550 Touring GT groaned and moaned. It also moaned and groaned! It has an Alko AKS 1300 stabiliser. Today it's just come back from servicing with new AKS pads @ £30.29 ex VAT. The tow ball has been carefully cleaned, no paint, no rust and degreased. It doesn't moan and groan nor groan and moan. I hope that helps. It's certainly helps me as I can't stand extraneous noises. BTW my understanding is that the hand wheel is on a torque setting so when tightened once it starts clicking you can't screw it on more or less. The clicks indicate its correctly tightened. Its not unlike the torque setting on a cordless drill, once set it can't apply more pressure than the setting allows.