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Overwinter
Last week we returned from our holidays. This week ( Friday ) was spent washing out the inside of the van. Saturday was spent washing and polishing the outside of the van before putting the cover on till next year as our outings are now over for this year.
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RE: Overwinter
in Anything Eriba-related Mon Oct 30, 2017 10:02 amby Aaron Calder •
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If you have the blue spray tap in your wash hand basin, it's a good idea to make sure that it is fully drained before overwintering as frost can force the body apart.
When I had my BIP updated, JohnE modified a switch that enables me to isolate the taps so that I can leave them open while the van is in storage with the battery connected. Another good tip (thanks again, Amanda) is to set the tap to normal (as opposed to spray) and blow down it to get rid of any water lurking inside.
Blue tap.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)
This is what you have to do if it does 'blow' due to ice expansion.
Blue tap01.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte) Blue tap03.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)
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I'll be putting our Troll to bed after next weekend. Last winter I drained everything, cleaned and polished the outside and then put on its Kampa cover.When I uncovered it in March everything was good.
However last week my near neighbour, who is a long time white box owner, came for a chat and asked me was I not putting a little heater with a thermostat in our Troll to come on in case of frost. Apparently Tom has done this every winter for ever to protect any pipes in his van from freezing.
I don't think this is needed and didn't do it last year. However it got me wondering if anyone on the Forum does this for their Eriba?
MikeT
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Eribanut on a sunny day Clitheroe & the Ribble Valley can look as beautiful as Cornwall!
It's just that for large parts of the year we are shrouded in cold and damp. We get our fair share of frost from now onwards.
I guess I need responses from those geographically less lucky than your good self! MikeT
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Not as far south as the Cornwall tropics so we also put a small heater in the Eriba during the winter months. It’s a tubular very low wattage thing (100W) with a thermostat plug. We do try to use the van all year round so it’s not been covered before but will be this year.
Troll 540GT (2013) gently nudging up against Galaxy.
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Quote: Soulbluesman wrote in post #4
However last week my near neighbour, who is a long time white box owner, came for a chat and asked me was I not putting a little heater with a thermostat in our Troll to come on in case of frost. Apparently Tom has done this every winter for ever to protect any pipes in his van from freezing.
I don't think this is needed and didn't do it last year. However it got me wondering if anyone on the Forum does this for their Eriba?
MikeT
Some of the points raised in this thread have got me wondering also, Mike.
If your near neighbour has drained everything down then I find myself asking 'what pipes are left to freeze?'
Ventilation is essential and Hymer have provided for this with several low-level ventilation points so unless these have been blocked air is going to enter the van from the bottom. However, this incoming air, along with containing moisture is not going to circulate especially when a van is covered blocking any slight additional openings e.g. windows not 100% sealed. Yes I realise that the first reaction by several is going to be 'ah, but my cover is breathable' to which I can only say that being an avid hiker during the winter months and having probably spent more on top quality clothing over the years than on hot dinners, I am still awaiting the day when following a steep climb up an Alpine hill, my back is not sweating like the proverbial pig and with this point in mind I doubt that the more common covers in use are 100% breathable as claimed.
Warm air i.e. produced from a heater placed inside the van, contains more moisture than cold and unless this moisture laden war air can be released by adequate ventilation then it's open door for damp and mould. So whilst low level heating is to be recommended it needs to be backed up with adequate ventilation. In a house it's easy - the provision of suitable physical ventilation points such as air bricks etc along with opening windows and exchanging air daily. Those of us living on the continent especially in more colder winter climates cannot have failed to observe that most households open up windows for at least half an hour even on rainy days. The question is then, how is one going to adequately ventilate a van that has been covered up to which the answer, in my book at least is, you can't.
Experience as a result of storing a motorbike in a very wet underground garage for 5 - 6 months of the year has taught me (and very many other bike owners also) that the most effective method of preventing the pride and joy from rusting directly before ones eyes is to seal it in an airtight bag into which a couple of especially made sacks of silica gel available from Louis https://www.louis-moto.co.uk/artikel/mul...anulat/10005049 and which can absorb up to 600g of moisture. Come Spring the bike is unpacked and is as dry as the day it was packed although the garage often reaches temperatures of minus 10°C and/or 100% humidity.
In the van I hang one bag from the pop-up roof clamp at the front and a second at the back end.
Now whilst an airtight bag might not be practical for use with a caravan lol, I personally would never consider using one of the more common caravan covers available that simply do not provide adequate ventilation. OK, they keep the van clean on the outside but dirt can be washed off; mould isn't got rid of quite so easily. Around our area there are several caravan/motorhome storage sites - some indoors whilst others are in the open - and as regards the latter, I have yet to see a single van covered up for the winter. That said, for those that simply have no other choice I would certainly recommend purchasing and hanging a couple of these sacks inside the van as they really do help and ventilate, ventilate, ventilate, at least on a weekly basis if not more often.
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Thanks Deep, a fair bit to reflect on.
As our Troll is on the drive right outside the lounge window we are very conscious of it, and go inside regularly throughout the winter, so we do ventilate it
Another white box owner on our road showed us round his, before we bought our Troll, and he had two bowls of some gel in his Lunar. When we got our Troll he gave us some to put in our Eriba but it didn't swell like it id in his and we eventually chucked it. It might be n idea to put some in for over-wintering .this time.
Last winter we toyed with bringing the upholstery into the house to store but decided against it and it was fine.M ikeT.
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RE: Overwinter
in Anything Eriba-related Sat Nov 04, 2017 10:28 amby eribaMotters •
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This is an interesting one to follow. I've got to store the van outside this year for the first time. It will be under a car port on axle stands and I've got a green cover [not tight fitting] to go over it. [plan to use this next year to keep it free of dust when stored in garage/workshop].
The van is fully drained down with taps and drain down valves left open. I have an isolation switch on the water pump so I can leave the van on hook up and the rest of the 12v operative.
I plan to take out the bedding/cushions etc, open up the cupboards and air it every couple of weeks.I'm not putting a low watage heater in it as in the unlikely event it did raise the temperature as said above warm air holds more moisture
I had wondered about the dehumidifier bags and if they are worthwhile as fresh air is getting into the van through the 4 or 5 underfloor vents and can exit through the vent over the bed.
Colin
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RE: Overwinter
in Anything Eriba-related Sat Nov 04, 2017 12:27 pmby eribaMotters •
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Well, I've ordered two bags. Best price I could find was £7.99 a bag inc p&p, on the glorious e-bay.
Werbung: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/THOMAR-1kg-Ai...119.m1438.l2649
Colin
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Skoda Yeti diesel 2wd _ ex 430, 552, camplet trailer tent, 310, now a nice new white 430.
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RE: Overwinter
in Anything Eriba-related Sat Nov 04, 2017 2:03 pmby Aaron Calder •
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I can never understand the logic of putting moisture-absorbing crystals into an area in which the air is constantly being changed due to natural ventilation.
All this is doing is removing moisture from air that is immediately being replaced by more moisture-laden air so what's the point?
Or have I misunderstood something?
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RE: Overwinter
in Anything Eriba-related Sat Nov 04, 2017 2:14 pmby Pepé Le Pew •
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Quote: Aaron Calder wrote in post #14I don't think you've misunderstood anything, old fruit.
I can never understand the logic of putting moisture-absorbing crystals into an area in which the air is constantly being changed due to natural ventilation.
All this is doing is removing moisture from air that is immediately being replaced by more moisture-laden air so what's the point?
Or have I misunderstood something?
You can dehumidify air in a sealed container, but the only way you can dehumidify air in a non-sealed container is if the level of humidity in there is above ambient.
Once the level is at ambient, all you are doing is attempting to dehumidify the earth's atmosphere because in seeking a balance, drier air is replaced by moist air from outside as you say.
The amount of water a dehumidifier gathers in this situation is no guide as to how successfully it's dehumidifying the space it occupies, and it will carry on extracting water until either the silicon crystals are saturated or, if it's an electric dehumidifier, until you can't afford to pay the electricity bill.
.
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