I'm in the process of modernising the electrics on our Troll & puzzled as to why the Awning light is on it's own 5 amp fuse & un - rectified. Can anyone throw any light on the subject (no pun intended)?

This is a problem if you don't use electric hook up like me. I quickly found this out and moved the supply to another terminal that was permanently live.

I wasn't aware at the time that there was a law requiring this and it's daft that Eriba have used this method without thought for off grid users.

For the legal pedantic people, I have come up with my own solution which is to fit a normally closed relay with the permanent live running through the contacts. The relay coil is energised with a supply from the tow car, this means that the supply to the awning light is inhibited when the car is connected to a tow car. A simple and effective solution I think.
Works OK for me anyway

We’ve just swopped our eriba, and have discovered the awning light works off grid ( the previous one didn’t ) it’s a Troll 540 2012. Once you switch the 12v switch hey presto it works.
I’ve just spent the weekend, without EHU, so nice discovery

Interesting read, thank you

Sorry about the "legal pedantry" description, perhaps I have too much of the free spirit or traveller in me, hence my love of caravans

There are many points that could be argued about the exceptions but I'm not here for that debate, merely to point out that Hymer were remiss in providing a van with an awning lamp that cannot be used off grid.

It would appear that later vans have addressed this issue with a 12V switch. ( Can you travel with that switch on though?)

My modification also works and complies with the regs .

Hi Aaron,
I had read your 'how to' but having read so many articles on caravan electrics recently, I'd almost lost the will to live by the time I got round to yours i'm afraid. I do vaguely remember that bit but it didn't sink in, anyway, I've been asleep since then :-)

I can see the reasoning behind it now, just hadn't made the connection.
It's obviously designed as a failsafe but having read your post above & skimmed through the regs it would appear that it's not a legal requirement to have the awning light automatically isolated from the supply whilst driving, only that it is illegal to show a white light to the rear so, in theory you could just rely on switching it off manually, it would only be illegal if you forgot.

To all intents & purposes, I could classify ours as a side marker, our door is at the back of the van & the awning light is behind it facing forward, saves mucking about with a relay.

Hi Len,
you have a good point there and I have just checked my awning light. The cover prevents it showing to the rear anyway, even if left on.
Needn't have bothered with my relay after all

IMG_20180728_140937536_HDR.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)
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I believe,but haven’t tried it, potentially you could drive with the 12 volt switch on, ( We will test the theory next time we hook up )

Our electrics are as such, 240 on EHU supplies fridge, water boiler and warm air heating and sockets
12 volt supply all of our lights, taps, toilet pump, cool air fan and the mover.

Also the 240 volts supplies 12v smoothed by the battery, the previous owners had nearly all the extras one could get !

You can leave it switched on, it just won't light up.

It's become clearer now that the old method of ensuring it wouldn't stay on was to isolate it at the transformer, no good for off grid. The modern method is to isolate it via the fridge/habitation relay which isolates the 12 v internal electrics whilst towing except for the fridge.

I have a relay hard soldered to the board in my BIP which I wrongly assumed was doing the job hence my original post, it's obvious now, that mine is isolated at the transformer not by the relay.

As I said above, my awning light faces forward & is in the same orientation as Ray's so can't show a light to the rear. I'm going to have to fit a new habitation relay anyway so will link it to that.