Good post this, I must order some, 9m I believe for my Troll, which is now all clean and covered up for winter in it's green coat.

To finish my contribution to this thread, I have just replaced the seal on the pop top so thought I would share my experiences.

First, choice of seal. In the end, I decided on ETS 1668. Although it was the more expensive of the 2, it was stiffer and kept its shape when bent. I thought this would be beneficial when placing it on the corners of the roof. As to cost, £5.79 per metre turned out to be excluding VAT and postage, so I ended up paying some £75 for the 9 metres I ordered. As it turned out, 9m was more than required and I had 1.7m left over. Still, better safe than sorry for the saving of a fiver.

Here are samples of the 3 seals in place - left to right, ets 1668, ETS 1556 and the original on the right.

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It was at this point that I realised my roof is somewhat out of shape and the leading edge has a definite 'peak' as it appears to have gone out of shape somewhat. As a result, the choice of 1668 was better as I had more rubber extrusion to fill the gap, although it isn't perfect.

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The old seal was simple to remove. A little fiddly to get the first bit off at the join in the middle of the back of the roof, but once I had something to get hold of, it just peeled off. I then set about giving the area clean. A wash to get rid of the build up of green muck that had accumumlated over the years (no real effort needed) then a light go over with some T-Cut followed by a quick wax polish. Much easier to do the sides of the roof when the seal is not in place.

Then it was simple matter of pushing the new seal in place. I started at the join point in the centre of the rear face of the roof and slowly worked round. I found that unrolling the seal round the roof in the first place made life easier as I didn't have to fight with the roll as I worked my way forward. Fitting suggestions I read made mention of PTFE spray to ease the process, but I found this uneccessary. I had the new seal fitted in about 15 minutes after the prep. The whole job took me probably no more than an a couple of hours in total.

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The trickiest bit was getting the two ends of the seal to form a neat butt joint at the back and I used these:

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to slowly nibble away at the seal to get it to a perfect length.

Very happy I've done the job and still slightly at a loss as to why the roof has gone out of shape at the front, but I'm not too worried about it. To be honest, at that point there isn't a 'perfect' seal, but realistically, I couldn't say whether the old one was perfect either, it's not the sort of thing you look at..

Thanks for the follow report Hugh. Looks a good job.
It is possible that your roof has been like that since new as the fibreglass moulding is not perfect. On one of our previous vans I could insert 3 fingers vertically under the lip seal. It was new and Eriba UK said it was quite common and they sanded excess material from other edges to make it a tidier fit.
TonyP

Blimey, Tony, that was some mis-shapen top. You may well be right, I could see no apparent reason why mine might be out of shape so, as you say, it may always have been like that. Upon removing the original seal it was apparent that the shaping of the roof, I guess after the original was removed from the mould, was a rough old piece of work, not a straight line to be seen anywhere, and that a hasty sanding or filing (or more likely, cut with a jigsaw) of the moulded piece was undertaken to make it 'fit where it touched', the seal making up for any discrepancies. Whatever the situation, it is better now but will always remain a bit of a Pig's ear...

This is a brilliant thread and has helped me enormously thanks Folks! My Troll seal came loose after lots of dirt and moss had found its way in. Removed it cleaned it and the roof. Then tried to replace it but there were several loose sections where it didn't grip and so I came to the good old forum! I'll order 9m of 1668 from Seal today and hope I can get it and fix before we leave for a fortnight on Saturday to North Wales.
Wanted to give it 5 but can't work out how - so have 10!

Just been on to Seals... excellent service. The guy said they supply Automotive Leisure who use 1668 to refurbish their Eribas and it is seen as the best seal and superior to the original. I told him Seals were trending on Eriba Forum and he was chuffed. The seal arrives tomorrow.

I measured and thought I only needed 8 metres but chickened out and ordered 9!

Hi All. New to the Eriba Family but need some advice. I have a 2017 Troll GT and when I lifted the pop up roof today (for inspection purposes) the water that got under it was frozen (Thick ice round the back of the top box). Noticed a gap with the seal along the back where the water must have got in. Tilted the caravan forward to help any future water drain forwards. Do I need a new seal and where would I get one. Also how do you clean the canvas from mildew. Cheers.

The "seal" isn't a seal, it's a bit of trim to cover the rough edge of the roof. Most if not all Eribas have a gap in the trim.
Cleaning the canvas can be done two ways, in situ or removed. There is a very clear description of how to remove the canvas in the Blog posts. I've removed it once and personally I would clean in situ if I did it again, I may be a coward though. The stuff to use to clean the canvas is Sunbrella 303 multi cleaner and to re-proof 303 Fabric Guard. If you do clean in situ, mask or protect the interior from spray. If you do decide to remove the canvas you are going to have to wait a while as you really need a nice warm day to dry the canvas. Actually even if you do it in situ you will still need nice weather to dry the canvas.

The Trim on the poptop has a gap in it at the back to allow water to drain off of the roof. This is normal.

While thinking the problem through (in my wisdom) I have tilted the caravan forwards to allow any water that gathers under or round the pop up roof to drain forward. Is my wisdom ok or questionable. Thanks in advance John

Zitat

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I measured and thought I only needed 8 metres but chickened out and ordered 9

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Better to be safe than sorry !

Thanks Randa. Yes there is a recess on the back of the Troll (ducks arse) which doesn't make sense to me however: this is where the problem is. Will monitor and thanks for some of the previous advice.

Hi, forum newbie here. I wonder if you can advise me:

I have a Troll. I gave it a thorough cleaning, including getting the green gunk off from around the roof trim. The trim came off along the side and I cleaned it and put it back. However now it will not grip the roof as it did previously and regularly droops on to the roof.

Is there something I can apply to the roof edge or the trim to get it to grip again? I don't really want to purchase a new trim if at all possible, as the trim I have looks in good condition.

Thanks Colin