Agreed on simplicity Nev2,

My BIP can be returned to original if required as nothing has been removed, just disconnected.

Incidentally, the reason I connected the cTek in to the 12V system via the redundant switch was to reduce the number of pairs connected to the battery. There is already 4, Scaudt booster, BIP, mover and solar panel.

Here is the unadulterated BIP with the transformer mains supply bottom left.
BIP1.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)

Ctek mains supply fed through to bottom left and Ctek output, red and black/red fed up through to the top. You can also see the blue 12Vsupply from the tow vehicle entering the top of the single pole switch next to the mains isolator.
BIP2.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)

Finished installation showing Ctek mains supply connected bottom left and cTek positive output connected to top of single pole switch. You can also just see the Ctek negative connection on the negative rail to the right of the BIP.
BIP3.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)

Final view from the top showing cTek positive and negative connections, also you can just see the cTek charger itself screwed to the floor top left.
BIP4.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)

One more point to consider.
On my 2007 Triton, there is a daft design to prevent showing the awning light whilst towing by only powering it when on EHU. No good at all if off grid as I always am.
The above modification tells the BIP that it is permanently off grid.
A quick and dirty fix for that is to remove the supply to the awning light from terminal 1 to terminal 6 of the BIP. Works but not legally compliant.

My permanent fix was to install a cheap relay operated from the fridge supply to inhibit the supply to the awning light when connected to the towcar (the only time the fridge has 12V power)

Ray. Fantastic information, much appreciated. I was thinking of removing the transformer completely but now I realise is that all I need to do is disconnect the mains supply from it. Makes it even easier!

By the way, it seems fro your photos that your BIP is much more accessible than mine.....mine is tucked away below the seat on the left side and is not easy to get to.

I note what you say about the awning light.....thanks again.

Niv2,
I dismantled the front panel of the seat locker to get at it!

One final question, the service engineer suggested it would be safer if my battery was in a battery box. I have a modern Varta 100amp agm battery which is securely fixed so it cannot slide and is securely strapped down.
I feel it is unnecessary to but an agm battery in a box. Does anyone have an opinion and what do others do?

There is a long discussion going on at another Eriba forum which gets very technical. My synopsis is that Hymer recommend the use of Gel batteries and they don't feel the need to fit them in battery boxes.

Other folk think an AGM battery is quite acceptable in a habitable space but wouldn't dream of a flooded lead acid battery.

Personally I think if a battery is well strapped down and the vent pipe taken outside that should be sufficient.

Others may be more cautious.

My conclusion as well. Also, I have sailed on and owned boats for years and batteries have always been stowed internally without battery boxes.

I have now obtained a CTek MXS 7.0 charger and have connected it. However the charger “clicks” every second or so when connected to the 100amp AGM leisure battery in my Eriba. The battery was tested last week and found to be in good condition. The charger does not “click” when connected to other (smaller) leisure batteries I have.
I assume it is not ususal for the charger to click in this manner
.

I take it that you are using the AGM option on the charger?

Oh yes...AGM setting being used.

Can't help with the normal operation of a CTek 7.0 as mine is a 3.6.

The clicking in and out sounds as if its sensing the cutout voltage to stop charging and then almost immediately sensing the cut in voltage to start again. That would indicate a really badly damaged battery that couldn't hold much charge at all.
Doesn't sound right to me so I would contact CTek for their opinion.

Battery seems fine. It was tested last week and found to be in good condition and it is holding over 13v at the moment.
I have contacted the seller and sent then a video of the clicking.....they seem to think that there is an issue as they are sending me a new unit and picking this one up.

Ray.......my CTek 7.0 has been exchanged for a new one and this one “clicks” as well. Also the company I purchased from has tested the original one and they find it clicks on AGM batteries and they conclude that his is “normal”.
I have also had my battery tested by 2 independent sources and both found it is in good condition with no faults.
They have given me the option of retaining the 7.0 and accepting it clicks, changing models or a refund.
I take it that your 3.8 does not click.....do you have an AGM battery and is it around 100amp?

Mine's a 3.6 connected to a 110 Ah wet lead acid battery at the moment. Never heard a click.

Incidentally, I am almost always off grid with a 60W solar panel. Couple of hours TV via invertor, charging phones and tablets. LED lights etc. Always have enough umph left in the battery at the end of a week to power the motor mover to get me off the pitch and on to my tow car.

I assume that the 7.0 CTek charges twice as fast as my 3.6 but it doesn't really affect me as the CTek only kicks in when I get back home. If you are on EHU then then there is even less drain on the battery as your main electrical appliances are running off the mains, the battery is there just to smooth things out a bit.

Thus I wonder if a 7.0 is actually required?