Thanks for responses and feedback......much appreciated. I am rapidly coming to the conclusion that the 7.0 is probably overkill as you say Ray. I will look for something of lower capacity that does not click!

I think I used a CTEX MXS 5.0 in my van. Like Ray, a wet lead acid battery, though mine I think is about 80 amp hour... No clicks!

The CTek 7.0 works fine without clicking on a 75amp lead acid battery fitted to my boat but clicks like mad on the 100amp AGM I’m my Eriba.

Niv2, it would be useful to get a comment from somebody with a 100Ah AGM battery and a smaller capacity CTek charger, just to try and identify if it is the charger or the battery that are the problem here.
Shame that CTek aren't as helpful as they could be.

Thanks for all your help. I have decided to move away fro CTek and have acquired a Mastervolt Easycharge Fixed 6v largely as they were selling these for a good price at my local yacht chandlery and they seem like a solid piece of kit being well built and waterproof. It is very simple, being simply plug and play, so hopefully nothing to go wrong. It is also completely silent.
I did eventually get a reply from CTek and they told me that the regular clicking was normal (I sent them a video).....

That looks like a good fix,I'm thinking of doing something to bypass the existing charger. The manual seems unclear what the single pole switch is mean to be for, can you confirm what it did on your unit? ours doesn't seem to do much at all!
Happy new year!
Julian

Southbourners,
I believe that the single pole switch is to switch 12Vdc from the towing vehicle to the caravan without the tow vehicle engine running.
Something I used to do many years ago before leisure batteries were the norm and I could run a couple of 12Vdc lights from the tow car's battery.

Not used much or ever today so I used it as described to get power from the Ctek in to the BIP.

Great stuff, that makes perfect sense.,
Thanks,
Julian
2008 Triton, with petrol auto Ateca 1.5.

I appreciate this is a very old post. But just in case, if you use this method does it stop your fridge from being powered whilst towed?

Hi Ben1455,

the method that I used does not affect the 12Vdc supply to the fridge when connected to a towing vehicle. The relay that powers the awning light simply senses that the towing vehicle is connected by monitoring the 12Vdc supply to the fridge.

I am continually confused by how the fridge is powered by the vehicle.On my 2005 Triton, do I need to switch the switch on the fridge itself to 12V before towing, or does it just get powered automatically by auto changeover when plugged into the car, so any switch on the fridge is irrelevant...?

Simon

I leave both of my switches on all the time! Except when hooked up on 230V at home.
So whatever power source is available the fridge will work. Off grid you have to turn the gas on and light that, also remember to turn the gas off when leaving site.

Interesting thread.
I also binned the BIP unit in our Troll as the unit is not really fit for modern use. I just wanted to add that the 12v supply for the fridge whist towing is only enabled when the car engine is running and its battery charging. This is done by a controller in the towing vehicle to protect the car battery.