I just had to go out and check the clearance on my Triton/Reich installation.
I measured 160mm ground clearance to the motor and exactly the same ground clearance for the suspension damper.

The only grounding I have experienced is with the spare wheel carrier actually!

New shafts now arrived....weight difference very welcome!

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Here's a few pictures and some helpful hints for replacing the worn 'gritted' rollers on a Reich Move Control.

Remember to disconnect your battery from the motor mover unit. To remove the motor and drive shaft assembly, safely jack the caravan and secure with an axle stand. Pull the spade connectors connecting the motor to the power cables. They will be protected by a rubber cover but will pull through, and you'll probably need to cut a cable tie off to free them too.

There are just two bolts holding the assembly to the rest of the mover:

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One simple nyloc nut and bolt nearest the motor will be a 19mm spanner, the other needs a 13mm spanner and a 6mm Allen key. On this one note how the bolt, washers, nylon washers and sleeve are assembled, and remove all. The sleeve may need some drifting out with something like a bolt larger than the sleeve but smaller than the hole. If it's not too dirty and gummed up with old grease, you might simply push it through with your fingers.

The motor and shaft assembly is heavy at around 5kg so be careful when you're pulling it out. It should look something like this:

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The shaft is held in place by a sleeve flange at the gritted end, that fits in a nylon bush inside the shaft. A new bush is provided ready fitted to the new shaft. Halfway down is a nylon steady block, this will need to be changed for the new one supplied with the shaft as the aluminium shafts are a smaller diameter. More on that later. At the motor end there are more nylon washers. New ones are supplied also but mine were in good condition so I left them (to change them you'd need to remove the sprung 'key').

To disassemble, simply remove the three bolts (10mm spanner) holding the shaft 'box' to the motors gearbox:

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You can now 'persuade' the shaft box to come away, it shouldn't be too difficult:

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This will probably leave the shaft still connected (via rust!) to the gearbox:

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Free off, (maybe gently tapping with soft mallet but go easy as the gearbox is probably fragile) I just wiggled it about until it dropped off:

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The motor unit itself was fairly rusty. I think they only put some 'plastikote' type stuff on back then. Newer models are powder coated.

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So I've removed much of the rust and oxidation and treated it to a coat of Hammerite.

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Will update further regarding reassembly when the second coat is dry

Great post Sulphurman,
it takes time to take photos during a maintenance procedure and I often forget halfway through.

Perhaps you should add this post to the "how to" guides section in the repair and maintenance section.

Thanks, I may do that. With permission from the moderators of course.

Now that the motor unit has its second coat of Hammerite, time to reassemble having cleaned the shafts 'box' of built up crud and old grease:

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The spacer block that is supplied with the new shaft has a very slightly smaller diameter to hold the slightly thinner aluminium part, difficult to tell from the photo but important to change it:

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However it cannot use the existing screw as it's too thin and so the hole in the box must be drilled out to accept the slightly thicker (hex head) one:

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(Note: Please do not wear slippers in close proximity to partner while he's drilling, Verity does like to live dangerously whilst taking pictures lol)

Fit new spacer block but do not tighten fully at this stage:

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Position of the nylon washers as mentioned before:

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Good job the existing were in good condition as I didn't fancy removing the sprung 'key' from the gearbox stud shaft, but it can be done if necessary.

A bit of spray grease at the crucial points:

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Shaft locates onto the gearbox and reassembly is quite straightforward, remembering of course to use new Nyloc nuts:

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Lastly, tighten the fixing for the spacer block now all is aligned:

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Pop the rubber boot back on and it's ready to refit:

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The new 'machined' surface should prove more reliable and will certainly improve stability on our uneven driveway, where the old 'shiny' bit of the worn out shaft caused the odd moment of panic as Esther lurched toward the corner of the house!

So more info on the ins and outs of fitting a mover to a Puck...

There is obviously an issue with the size of the chassis and clearance getting bolts done up. This showed itself today when I bolted the mover back together and tried it out for the first time. Some adjustment in 'twist' from side to side was needed immediately as one side was closer to the wheel than the other. After this was done I realised that the scissor action pressing the mover shaft against the tyres was pretty much at full stretch to get enough purchase.

So the problem with access and clearance to bolt the unit to the chassis via the clamps is the major fly in the ointment, and it's no wonder that a lot of fitters don't want to know. There is still just enough traction to get Esther up our 1:5 (somewhat uneven) drive, but I'll be happier when the nuts for the clamps are tight against the chassis cross member that sits behind the wheel. At the moment they are sitting a bit back from the chassis:

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And there were a couple of points on the really uneven bits where we had to help by pulling the handles. However, I feel our usage on our driveway is an extreme situation, and for lesser gradients/on the flat everything would be hunky dory.

All in all it's still a work in progress and some fettling is required, but we do need the mover and I have enjoyed getting to grips with the project.

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Here's a very short clip of Esther moving up the very narrow, very uneven drive on her own:

Sulphurman - i wanted to speak to you about the reno you did on your sprung seats?? Does anyone mind if I do that on this thread?

Just going back to the original post, I believe Dom Fox will fit movers to the little puck's

Quote: jago68 wrote in post #27

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Sulphurman - i wanted to speak to you about the reno you did on your sprung seats?? Does anyone mind if I do that on this thread?

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