New Jockey Wheel and Clamp
How to: Fit a New Jockey Wheel and Clamp.
in Improving your pride and joy and how to fix things Fri May 16, 2014 3:41 pmby Aaron Calder • | 3.834 Posts
While parking the van with the mover on the gravel after our recent jaunt, I noticed that the jockey wheel seemed to be a bit wonky and not turning as smoothly as I would have liked. When I removed it to have a closer look, this is what I found.
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The nylon bushing to the centre of the wheel had collapsed and instead of rotating around the centre spindle, the whole assembly was wobbling about on what remained of the wheel hub. The black bits in the wheel are what was left of the bushing.
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As you can see, the pneumatic tyre was also badly perished and just waiting for a puncture to happen.
The clamp and jockey wheel assembly were also pretty rusty and the bottom of the external tube didn't have slots to keep the wheel from flapping about while towing. I decided, therefore to replace the whole assembly with a heavy duty Alko Air jockey wheel and at the same time fit a new clamp.
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The old clamp, the wheel central spindle and bits of the disintegrated nylon bushing.
The first thing to do when removing the jockey wheel assembly is to make sure that the drawbar is adequately supported . I used an axle stand but bricks or timber blocks would serve just as well. Once the clamp has been released, the jockey wheel assembly can be waggled out from underneath but if this is not possible, just unscrew the two parts of the assembly by turning the jockey wheel down as far as it will go.
The clamp is held to the drawbar by two bolts and you will need two 17mm spanners to remove the Nyloc nuts. I used a ring spanner and a 1/2" drive socket on a short extension bar.
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Drawbar securely supported on an axle stand.
The original winding handle had a rubber cover that sealed the top of the spindle but to remove it and refit it on the new assembly would have involved driving out the two rollpins (easy) and removing the winding knobs (not so easy). The plastic knobs have been pressed onto the ends of the spindles which have a couple of projections at the end. The original knob had split and was easy to tap off but as I had visions of smashing the new one I decided to fit the assembly as supplied.
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The original assembly showing the rubber rain cover.
Fitting the new clamp and jockey wheel was simple and straightforward. After bolting on the new clamp and greasing the clamp screw thread, I waggled the assembly into position from below and clamped it in place.
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The finished job. I wonder how long it will stay that shiny?
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2003 Triton 420 and Audi A4 2.0Tfsi S-line SE Cabriolet
RE: Fitting a new jockey wheel and clamp.
in Improving your pride and joy and how to fix things Fri May 16, 2014 5:50 pmby Aaron Calder • | 3.834 Posts
RE: Fitting a new jockey wheel and clamp.
in Improving your pride and joy and how to fix things Fri May 16, 2014 8:54 pmby hampshireman (deleted)
Gives me something to ponder over. The jockey wheel had sunk a bit deep in the soft grass at Charmouth and took some fiddling to unearth and hitch up, so maybe a wider wheel on a proper tyre might be the idea.
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Puck 225L pushing CMax 1.9TDI Ghia
RE: Fitting a new jockey wheel and clamp.
in Improving your pride and joy and how to fix things Tue May 27, 2014 10:57 amby crow (deleted)
RE: Fitting a new jockey wheel and clamp.
in Improving your pride and joy and how to fix things Fri Jun 27, 2014 12:42 pmby KeithDM (deleted)
The two-bolt clamp on my 2013 Troll folded as if it was made from tin-foil when the bottom of the jockey wheel tube caught the top of a kerb when using the motor mover to go from site-road onto the pitch (in Spain earlier this month). Luckily I was able to source a replacement clamp reasonably locally. Therefore the four-bolt version is of great interest! Any idea what the part-no. is?
The caravan is currently back in storage so I cannot pop out and measure things but is the standard Alko tube fitted to current Trolls 48mm diameter? I saw on the link that the Alko assy is described as:-
Al-Ko heavy duty assembly with pneumatic wheel - very suitable for caravans with movers fitted.
Galvanised Steel 48 mm Dia. tube, with thrust bearing.
Pneumatic tyre and steel rim.
200 Kg Static nose load, 120 Kg Dynamic Nose Load.
and it is the " very suitable for caravans with movers fitted" bit that interest me.
Keith
2013 540GT & Honda CR-V 2.2 iDTEC ES-T
Emile the (less than perfect but still loveable) Eriba
RE: Fitting a new jockey wheel and clamp.
in Improving your pride and joy and how to fix things Sat Jun 28, 2014 8:45 amby Deeps (deleted)
Quote: KeithDM wrote in post #6
The two-bolt clamp on my 2013 Troll folded as if it was made from tin-foil when the bottom of the jockey wheel tube caught the top of a kerb when using the motor mover to go from site-road onto the pitch (in Spain earlier this month). Luckily I was able to source a replacement clamp reasonably locally. Therefore the four-bolt version is of great interest! Any idea what the part-no. is?
I'm sure that I've posted this once before but anyway - a short while back I too replaced my 2-bolt Jockey Wheel clamp as I believed that the pivotting effect around the 2-bolt fixing point would eventually lead to something breaking. In fact the dealer replaced the original 2-bolt clamp for another of the same prior to us taking delivery of our van because in fact just wheeling the van around in storage had caused the clamp to break. I picked up a replacement 4-bolt version from my local caravan dealer and with the holes already being drilled in the frame the replacement was a piece of cake. Attached is an image taken from the ALKO catalogue which includes the part number. Needless to say, the entire Jockey Wheel assembly now remains rock steady, vertical and without the slightest indication of deflection.
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2013 Triton 430, VW Touran TDI BM
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RE: Fitting a new jockey wheel and clamp.
in Improving your pride and joy and how to fix things Sat Jun 28, 2014 12:30 pmby Frantone (deleted)
I think that my jockey wheel assembly became bent when a largish piece of gravel became jammed between the wheel and the metal frame end. The wheel was jammed and the mover was exerting a lot of force in a sideways direction before I realised that the wheel was not rotating.
Troll & Galaxy.
RE: Fitting a new jockey wheel and clamp.
in Improving your pride and joy and how to fix things Sat Jun 28, 2014 12:59 pmby Agger (deleted)
I have the 2 bolt fixing and hav'nt had any problems in 8 years with tbis van or the 18 years with the previous van, but then I am carefull and don't have a mover
RE: Fitting a new jockey wheel and clamp.
in Improving your pride and joy and how to fix things Sat Jun 28, 2014 2:00 pmby Deeps (deleted)
Quote: Agger wrote in post #9
I have the 2 bolt fixing and hav'nt had any problems in 8 years with tbis van or the 18 years with the previous van
I don't believe for one moment that your Jockey Wheel remains absolutely vertical when you are manhandling the van into position. OK, it might not assume a ridiculous angle .......yet.........but as sure as chickens lay eggs something will break one day. I liken it to a computer hard drive in that it's not a question of 'if' but rather 'when'.
2013 Triton 430, VW Touran TDI BM
мы прибываем невидимые - we arrive invisible
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RE: Fitting a new jockey wheel and clamp.
in Improving your pride and joy and how to fix things Sat Jun 28, 2014 4:08 pmby Agger (deleted)
Quote: Deeps wrote in post #10Quote: Agger wrote in post #9
I have the 2 bolt fixing and hav'nt had any problems in 8 years with tbis van or the 18 years with the previous van
I don't believe for one moment that your Jockey Wheel remains absolutely vertical when you are manhandling
You believe what you want I have records and receipts for everything I have bought for caravanning and or motorhoming going back at least 37 years
In any case by your statement you might guess we will all die one day, wheras I know I will
Sorry, should of added that I lift the front end when man handling it makes it easier on gravel, on tarmac etc I just push it in
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RE: Fitting a new jockey wheel and clamp.
in Improving your pride and joy and how to fix things Sun Jun 29, 2014 10:59 amby Deeps (deleted)
Ah, I wonder whether on my van the slightly different shape of the frame to which the clamp is attached makes a difference. As you can see, the rounded face of the clamp is directly in line with the rounded face of the frame which, with only the two bolts acting as a pivoting point, allows the Jockey Wheel to lean out. The clamp might only allow for a 1-2 degree rotation at the fixing point but when extrapolated along it's length results in a much greater angle at the bottom end. On my van not only was the inner part of the Jockey Wheel applying stress to the bottom part of the outer tube forcing it to flare out but also it was applying pressure to the plastic decorative panel which resulted in a split between the smooth front part and the hammer finished part at the joint where they met. Fortunately with the aid of this image I was able to pursuade Hymer (via my local dealer) that this split was caused as a direct result of the two bolt system allowing for far too much Jockey Wheel deflection and this plastic cover will be replaced under warranty when the van goes in for it's annual service in late September.
Clamp.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)
2013 Triton 430, VW Touran TDI BM
мы прибываем невидимые - we arrive invisible
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RE: Fitting a new jockey wheel and clamp.
in Improving your pride and joy and how to fix things Sun Jun 29, 2014 11:15 amby hob (deleted)
Deeps it looks to me that your clamp is bent where it attaches to the van
clamp.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)
Edit
Just read your earlier post again, it seems you have already replaced it.
Vauxhall Insignia Sri towing 2006 Triton 430 import
RE: Fitting a new jockey wheel and clamp.
in Improving your pride and joy and how to fix things Sun Jun 29, 2014 11:50 amby Deeps (deleted)
Looks like it, but no it isn't. This image was taken at the dealers from whom we purchased the van with the entire Jockey Wheel and bracket being replaced prior to delivery. When the van is lifted at the front end and the Jockey Wheel positioned vertically the two faces (clamp and frame) sit flush and remain so. It is only when the van is wheeled over any surface that hasn't got a mirror-like finish or when the van is swung around into position - on a campsite say - allowing a bit of stress on the clamp that the clamp starts to pivot. As said earlier, a one degree tilt at the top end is greatly exaserbated along it's length so that it really looks bad at the wheel end of the Jockey Wheel. The replacement clamp and Jockey Wheel fitted by the dealer did exactly the same thing which leads me to the conclusion - quite reasonably I believe - that this is both a design failure along with a cost cutting exercise because the holes are already pre-drilled in the frame allowing for a four bolt clamp to be fitted and indeed such a clamp is readily available from ALKO themselves.
Having now myself fitted the four bolt clamp and put the van to use several times since doing so, the Jockey Wheel remains vertical throughout all manouvering of the van. When out camping I expect to be able to manouver the van using all three points - main wheels and Jockey Wheel - irrespective of the quality of surface and not have to think about the need to lift the front end to push the van into place. I've never suffered with back problems over all these years so I don't intend provoking any at this late stage LOL.
2013 Triton 430, VW Touran TDI BM
мы прибываем невидимые - we arrive invisible
My You Tube Channel
RE: Fitting a new jockey wheel and clamp.
in Improving your pride and joy and how to fix things Sun Jun 29, 2014 1:07 pmby KeithDM (deleted)
Like yours, my 2013 540 exhibited exactly the same behaviour from new - i.e. the jockey wheel tube assy would adopt an angle of lean (at times alarmingly so) when manoeuvred. Tightening the two bolts quite frequently became necessary. Am now in the process of ordering the four-bolt clamp!
Keith
2013 540GT & Honda CR-V 2.2 iDTEC ES-T
Emile the (less than perfect but still loveable) Eriba
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