Quote: eribaMotters wrote in post #14

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When built they part drill from underneath extra holes in the front sill and if you run your hand underneath you should be able to feel one of these next to the existing socket. I'd go through the centre/pilot hole from underneath with a 6.35 [1/4"] drill so you can then do the 53mm hole from the top.
When I did mine I found I had to use a shallow hole saw and an angle drive drill. As you are further along you may be OK
When I put a hole through the plywood cabinetry in other places I could not manage to get zero breakout on the reverse. You could try double sided tape and a sacrificial piece of ply, better still deep throat quick grip clamps if you have them.



Colin

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Quote: JohnE wrote in post #15

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Quote: pooksmith wrote in post #13

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Has anyone done this and have any advice?

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Hi Steve, I do so many of these CBE installations, to speed things up and get the alignment right if installing doubles and trebles I made up a template which makes life much easier.

I also use CBE alignment spacers which clip between the accessories to get the spacing right.



If you think they may help and you'd like to borrow them I could post them in a Jiffy bag to you.

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Also note that if you are fitting next to an existing fitting, you should remove the exiting one first and refit it with a double or even triple frame. The square chrome ones you have are held in by 4 screws in the corners of each socket. These need to have fairly small heads to allow the frame to clip on to finish the job. The frames shown in the clearcut guide have the frames fitted with one screw on each side.

Ideally with the hole saw, if you you start from one side and finish from the other side you will (should) get a neat finish. Doing a little at a time is also better than trying to blast through in one go. You may notice a bit of smoke as there is a lot of friction, going slowly helps here.

Thanks Steve and Colin
Great advice

I’m doing the same, fitting a twin usb on the dinette end, and a 12v under the rear cupboard. The cable run from the wardrobe to the front dinette seat is through the plastic bathroom panels. If you shine a torch towards the bathroom from the back corner under the dinette seat, you will see the light showing above the wheel arch under the cupboard. A stiff wire/wire coat hanger will allow you to guide the cable through. Do it gently as there are other cables running under there.

Quote: eribaMotters wrote in post #22

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I managed to feed some wires through the gap between the top of the overbed cupboards and the roof using the snap in top section of some 15x12mm plastic conduit.

Colin

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Quote: Stewart Page wrote in post #21

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I’m doing the same, fitting a twin usb on the dinette end, and a 12v under the rear cupboard. The cable run from the wardrobe to the front dinette seat is through the plastic bathroom panels. If you shine a torch towards the bathroom from the back corner under the dinette seat, you will see the light showing above the wheel arch under the cupboard. A stiff wire/wire coat hanger will allow you to guide the cable through. Do it gently as there are other cables running under there.

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I usually find it is best to feed your guide strip through first, then attach the cable with tape and pull it back through. Try to make the join as smooth as you can.

Success!
All new sockets and switches installed.
Pulling the cable was tricky, but I found I could push it from both ends to the middle. There’s a small gap behind the toilet cassette door where the cables can be seen. I managed to hook the cables ends out through this gap, cable tied the ends together, and then pulled the cable all the way through from one end.

I need not have worried about drilling the holes with a hole saw. I followed the advice to drill from both sides and had no breakout.