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This is the one I eventually bought 6 years ago Judith.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-6335...s=torque+wrench

We already had 17mm/19mm double headed socket (1/2") on a tool like this so didn't need to buy one.

Werbung: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/312981802456?...7Cclp%3A2334524

I think you'll find it just as cheap to but this tool as well as the torque wrench because sockets on their own are quite expensive.

Randa

I must admit I use a sliding extendable bar and socket. When I then go to check with my dad's old Rolls Royce issue Norbar torque wrench I'm usually spot on. I still always carry it though and check after the van has been serviced.

Colin

Quote: Steve and Debbie wrote in post #63

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I got that wheel nut wrench from Wilco for a few quid cheaper

https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/wilko-telesc...rench/p/0184173

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For those with alloys who want a bit of piece of mind and who cannot use the plastic movement indicators, use a permanent marker pen.
Whenever the wheel bolts are removed I wipe the old pen marks off the head with a spot of meths, fit and torque the bolts and apply a new line across the head, pointing at the centre of the wheel.

Colin

Hi Debbie.

How to use a torque wrench? I've looked at several videos regarding this and they are all either very short and unclear or very long and wordy. This is the best one I think although the guy is talking motorbikes and small torque wrenches as well as larger ones.

For people in the UK and Europe we use metric so we need a Newton Metre (Nm) wrench and for Eribas with steel wheels the wheel nuts need to be tightened to 100 Nm. For alloys I need some confirmation from others but I think the figure is 120Nm ?

The best bit of the linked video happens at 3minutes 20 seconds to 5 minutes 10 seconds but the rest of it is quite interesting.

I think I read somewhere that you should check your nuts about 50 miles after having the car/van serviced. Bit of a bugger having to drive 50 miles away though when the garage is only about a mile away.
Randa