Quote: Pop540 wrote in post #30

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do you have spiders trying to make home under window lip as well?

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I think that will do! I can sit back and admire my nice clean Eriba now, pull out on Sunday

ooo nice

Quote: Pop540 wrote in post #33

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ooo nice

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You might have mentioned this already but if you have, then I've missed it. Question - do you remove the rubber surround when machine polishing the pop-top and if so, is it a simple push on job or do they use adhesive?

I do remove it, easily enough as it is a "sprung steel" type fixing, you'll see what I mean when you remove it it also get muck and algae trapped in it, so it's worth doing, I fed mine into a large plastic container with some bleach solution and left it for a day or two, came up really nice with the aid of a stiff brush to remove the ingrained muck. Just worth mentioning and please don't think I am patronising, but be careful with the polisher around the exposed edges, it would be easy to catch the unfinished rough edge of the upper roof and that could cause damage, again you'll see what I mean.

Best of luck and please let me know how you get on + any tips

As new owners, what is the LEAST we need to do to maintain our Troll in a reasonable condition? What products would you recommend please?

Is it a new Troll? If so smooth or dimpled? Do you have a cover or carport or even a barn or such like to keep it in?

It will be new when we get it (soon I hope) depending on AL - it's been on order since June 21. It's the dimpled type, not the shiny silver.. We will be buying a cover, but we will be using it through the winter months (!)

Ah ok, dimpled is cool

You may or may not have seen some posts on here regarding cleaning, here is one I put together awhile ago,


The first thing you need is willpower! Without it you will just put off the job until another day.

I always have willpower so its no problem for me, I then collect together the other bits I need, this is my list for the external pre wash, wash, dry and then wax.

Ladder 
Hosepipe with spray gun head
Aldi or Lidl caravan cleaner
Car shampoo (I use Autoglym)
Noodle mitts (plural)
Soft brush (for the tyres)
Cotton wool balls (for the rain gutter and awning rail)
Toothbrush (to be used carefully)
Microfibre cloths (Asda and car valeters)
Polish application sponge pads
Polish (I use a variety but like Meguiars)
Microfibre cloths
Wax application sponge pads
Wax (Harly,  Collinite etc)
More microfibre cloths.
I use 2 Rhino buckets to keep these items in while I am using them.

I often split the van into sections as it is easier and saves me having to rush the job, therefore I do the front, side, back and then the other side. I can do the roof as well following the above practice.

I put the ladder up across the draw bar as this allows me to access the whole of the front, I can do the pop top roof and lower roof section around to the high level side marking lights this way.

I start by giving the area I am working on a good soaking with just plain water and depending how long it's been between washes, I undo the window catches so I can access the body parts that are covered while the windows are closed. IMHO it is essential to presoak the van as this softens bugs, flys etc and any dust or black streaks.

If the dreaded black streaks do appear  I use the Aldi or Lidl caravan cleaner, sometimes straight from the bottle onto a wet noodle mitt, at other times mixed in a bucket of water (a little stronger than it says on the bottle). I then work thus into the bodywork and keep my hosepipe at the ready in the other hand to spray off when I can see the marks have gone. I do this all over the front of the upper roof, lower roof, side to the door, front (including under the window edges) and even the drawbar cover) then of course the other side, but only the roof. I then rinse it off and use the Autoglym shampoo which gives a really nice smooth feel to the paintwork, I use  a different noodle mitt for this, again I will use it neat onto a wet mitt or premixed in a bucket. Once I am happy that the paintwork is clean I rinse it off and then use one of the large Asda microfibre cloths (£3 and just brilliant, orange in colour and big!) to dry the washed areas, I lift the windows and clean around the rubbers with an old damp cloth.

I then move the ladder and other needed items to the non door side, as part of this is still wet, I pre rinse the whole side inncluding the pop top, side lower roof and the side, again I unlatch the windows, I also unlock the Thetford door. As before I will use the Aldi or Lidl cleaner on black marks, and then rinse it off before I wash the side with a noodle mitt soaked in the diluted cleaner, this is then rinsed off and the Autoglym shampoo applied as before. I lift the windows and clean around the surrounds and open the Thetford hatch and do the same. As before I then rinse it off and then using another clean Asda microfibre cloth, I dry the wet areas.

Basically the same for the back and then the door side. Which should see the van washed clean and dried.

I will deal with wheel cleaning later as mine are covered so only get a wash before a trip.

I then look for any unsightly marks on the trim or other areas. Depending on what and where the marks are I use a variety of cleaning agents to remove them. I find Duraglit particularly useful for the aluminium waistline and rain / awning gutter. I have also used vaby wipes and throw away wipes successfully, it depends what you want to remove! I never ever have to scrub or use force to remove dirty marks, inevitably all you will remove is paintwork!!!

I now move onto the polishing and or waxing. For this it is imperative that the paintwork is clean and dust free, if not you will end up with swirl marks!  I use a variety of polishes and waxes so I will mention those I like. I follow the instructions on the product and nearly all need a good shake before use, here's a little tip, put the polish / wax bottle / jar / tin in a plastic bag and then put it in a bowl of hot water, this loosens the settled residue (the good stuff at the bottom of the container), after a few minutes take it out of the bag (why a bag? If not you lose the instructions as they disintegrate) and give it a good shake!

Apply some of the polish / wax to a sponge applicator pad and using a circular motion start at one end of a panel and work it in once you have applied it to an area using the circular motion, use the pad again to go over what you have already done using straight lines, this will ensure a good even covering. Many of us use to much polish / wax you only need enough to leave a light dusting on the van, but you need to work it in, again just light elbow grease no force or scrubbing!

This should dry to a light dusty type coating (some polishes / waxes should not be allowed to dry!  BUT you will know that as you read the instructions!)  Once it is dry grab a clean and fresh microfibre cloth and gently rub off the dry polish / wax again I use a light circular motion followed by straight lines. I do the very top underneath of the windows, this is being picky but thats what I am! Just work your way around the van following the same method. 

If you are polishing you may want to seal in the shine with a wax after, you should as it extends the life of the shine. The general rule is to allow at least 24 hours between polishing and applying wax or indeed waxing on top of wax (multicoating).

Some of this will not apply to a dimpled van and it may be more than you want to do, I had a dimpled van for 18 years (Burstner) and it was immaculate when I sold it, they just need tlc and attention, but then they all do.

If I can help in anyway please comeback

Thank you - have printed this off and given it to John.........but then he doesn't clean the car often....and I never do!

all am going to say is keep up with roof polishing and uv degrade.
I use farcela uv polish but its not as easy as meguairs with a caranuaba wax to finish

nice post Agger

OK, I've got this all singing all dancing Kunzer 7PM03 Polishing Machine that comes highly rated in our main consumer test magazine and included in the package are a 180mm lambs wool pad and a 180mm foam pad which hasn't got a hole in it. The three page instructions are next to useless - in fact probably even less so - and consists only of H&S instructions e.g. don't go poking children in the eye with it LOL but nothing about how to use the machine.

The screw on plate has a velcro type bottom as does the lambs wool pad so I'm guessing that I fix the plate to the machine and then slip the lambs wool pad over the top. Um - should the lambs wool pad wear through I'd then have a nice round piece of velcro bottomed plate whirling around over my car or van roof. Can this be right?

The alternative of course is to fix the foam pad first but this doesn't have a hole in it. Is one supposed to drive one's own hole through first then and in fact is the foam pad even to be put on at all?

Is the foam pad there simply to apply the polish and to be used on it's own and if so, how is one supposed to attach it to the plate. I have a funny feeling that not enough is supplied in the box to set about the job in the first place.

H E L P and are there any decent videos out there? 20141022_115512.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte) 20141022_115543.jpg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)

Hiya, the foam pad should have velcro on one side, this would then attach to your backing plate (which I'm sure you know, but just wanted to confirm it for you) the lambs wool I don't use at all.

You can apply polish or wax with a foam pad, and you can also remove the polish / wax with another foam pad these foam pads come in differering grades and are usually different colours depending on what process you are undertaking

Like you I suspect you hav'nt got enough pads or backing plates to complete the task I can understand your frustrations

As for tutorials there are gazillions of them on you tube also look at car detailing sites for information on pads, best to buy, best place, best size etc for your particular machine.

If I can offer any more assistance please come back to me